Hi all,
Looking for pointers to restore my hull’s gel coat. I’ve used 3M Marine Restorer & Wax on a test spot. While it cleans, and no doubt waxed, very nicely, the blue strip stays quite dull. Has anyone successfully restored their boat to a crisp white and vibrant blue? Lots of videos on YouTube, but they’re all trying to sell you something!
Happy boat prep to all 
Val
NS26C 075
NSC
Should have mentioned that it looks amazing when it’s wet down with water, but immediately dulls upon drying.
Orbital poisher..
2000 then
3000 3m discs then
Miguires swirl remover compound
Then Fleet Wax
4 steps
3 days
Wax every 6 months
Val,
My N26C had been neglected for years when I got her this January. We tried different methods to bring the gel coat back. Best results were wet sanding with very fine paper, I think 2000, then applying a combination heavy duty red and white finer paste compound from a auto parts supplier. The combo mix allows the heavy red to be pliable in the 1cold February weather we worked in. We had previously tried the very expensive compound from West Marine with very little result. We used a high speed polisher and with a lot of labor brought most of the gel coat back to about 70%. The stern which we spent 6 hours on because we had to remove the prior name came back to about 90%. I think if you can take a 6 foot section at a time for four hours you will get a good result. Hope this gives some encouragement.
Steve O’Malley
ANU N26C #172
Marblehead MA
Val,
I am not trying to sell you anything but based on the photos you are dealing with a case of heavy oxidization. La Reina was oxidized but not as badly. She came up quite well, especially the white.
You will need a good quality polishing machine such as a 9" Makita with the appropriate bonnets/polishing pads. I have used 3M wool bonnets. Do not use an angle grinder, they spin at too high of a speed and could burn through the gelcoat. It is way too much work to do it by hand and you will give up before you have done enough. If you don’t want to purchase try renting.
I suggest you start with a heavy oxidization remover or rubbing compound after you have given her a really good clean. You will need to spend about 5 minutes doing each 2’x2’ area of the hull and keep the polisher moving. Do the blue sheer and boot stripes separately because the blue will come off onto the pad and then onto the white gel coat. Once you are done with the rubbing compound you switch bonnets and go to a polishing compound such as Finesse-11. When that is done switch bonnets and apply the wax (two coats). Collinite 885 Fleet wax gets good reviews. If you use the Collinite make sure you buff it off before it dries. Unlike other paste waxes you do not let it dry to a haze before removing. If it dries it takes a lot of effort to polish. I spent a full day (10 hours) doing the hull on La Reina. The first year she looked better, the second year she looked much better. Unfortunately the blue still fades and develops that grey oxidization look. About every two months I spend a couple of hours at anchor applying Meguiars One Step Cleaner and Wax to the sheer stripe.
The article I followed when polishing La Reina does not appear to be on line anymore.
If the oxidization remover does not work you might have to step it up to 800 grit sand paper. I have not been brave enough to do that. I am too worried about sanding through the gelcoat. If that fails or you don’t want to try the sand paper there are gelcoat restoration products such as Poliglow. Here is a a link to Practical Sailor’s review from 2008 practical-sailor-searches-for-the-best-gelcoat-restorer
Many of these are acrylic products not unlike Zep floor wax. A number of people have tried Zep because it is much less expensive than the gel coat restorers. I have not tried either but I have convinced my neighbour to let me use his Albacore racing dinghy as a test subject for the Zep.
Here are a couple of after shots of La Reina the second year I polished her.
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.
Hi Val,
I think the best advice I have seen is in this link:
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/tips-for-a-great-buff-wax.117266/
Maine Sail is very detailed in his instructions. We followed his advice on our 30 and I am quite happy with the results we got on the one side we did. The other side is still waiting. The Makita polisher he recommends is great but I will say it gets heavy after a while. The Collinite wax is also a good product and gives a long lasting shine. I have not worked on our boot stripe yet, but it badly needs attention.
Peter Moodie
Nonsuch 30U
Catalyst #366
Sidney, BC/Winnipeg, MB
On Saturday, May 23, 2020 at 12:27:14 PM UTC-5, Peter Moodie wrote:Peter Moodie
Hi again Val,
Here are two pictures from our compounding experience. I think the after picture is prior to waxing.
Wow, very encouraging to see what I will end up with. I’m pretty confident that it’s no worse off than yours and Mark’s hull. Can’t wait to see the final results!
By the way, just wanted to say how helpful All of you forum members have been. It’s a great community and I really enjoy reading all of your posts.
Cheers
Val
NS26C
NSC
Val:: I’d seriously consider replacing those through hulls. They look very sun dried and brittle. If they feel chalky, they are in danger of failing. The transom looks outstanding.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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[/details]Hi Val,
Thanks, it is really gratifying to see the final results. I cannot stress enough how valuable I think Maine Sail’s advice is. He has a website which contains a wealth of information on boat maintenance and equipment. For example, he has a good series on electrical issues.
Val, The best combination I have come up with is the 3M for lightly oxidized and follow up with Collonite Fleet wax, also I found Barkeepers Friend cleaner to do a great job on the rub rail.
On Saturday, May 23, 2020 at 12:07:29 PM UTC-4, Val NS26C #75, Ottawa, ON wrote:
For heavy stains on the white hull, I’ve had tremendous success with cheap toilet bowl cleaner. Spray it on and wait 5 minutes and then hose it off.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Well, Joe, some of do actually go the extra mile when it comes to toilet bowl cleaner but …
Regardless, this sounds like a superb “Joe” idea, seriously. Go ahead and laugh but, like, what brand do you use ?? Once again, seriously, do the “finer” brands lack a particular ingredient that make the difference ?? Or, are they all the same but why spend $$$ on “the sweet smelling stuff” or the one with an expensive pump sprayer ?
Like for sail track lube, many of us use “Joy”. I’m not sure why. Maybe the actual brand makes a difference.
Thanks for this darn good tip, though.
Ernie A. in Toronto
I usually get the cheapest at the cheapest store. I’ve never been disappointed.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Hi Joe, is the blue stripe gelcoat? Or is it paint? Thanks Jim Moores N33 41# Arawak
Jim: I believe that they are all painted on. Mine is Awlgrip.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
My stripe is glecoat. I wonder what the pantone code for the stripe is?
Randy Gadikian
Paisley Moon
NS26C
Buffalo, NY
I stand corrected. It is indeed paint. But very thin and tough paint. I can’t make it develop a gloss without clouding up the next day.
You can not compound Awlgrip. The paint develops a gloss on the surface as it cures. Any attempt to “restore” the gloss simply removes it.
Other paints like Imron and Alex Seal are paint all the way through and can be compounded.