Thanks, Paul, for the insights.
All, I researched how to handle the broken screw problem Paul mentioned:
This is a well-known issue on many Milwaukee drills (including high-torque models like the M18 FUEL SUPER HAWG 2809-20 and similar M18 tools), as Paul mentioned.
The chuck threads onto the spindle with a standard (right-hand) thread. In reverse, the high torque tries to unscrew the chuck from the spindle. Milwaukee counters this with a small left-hand (reverse-thread) retaining screw that goes down the center of the chuck into a tapped hole in the spindle end. That screw tightens under reverse rotation, so the chuck stays put.
The problem is that the screw is relatively small/weak. Under heavy reverse loads (self-feed bits, stuck fasteners, high-torque applications, or just aggressive use), the head can strip, the screw can shear off, or the stub can break inside the spindle. Extracting a broken stub is a pain (left-hand extractors, careful drilling, heat, etc.), and the chuck can then spin free or cause other problems.
The retaining screw is a left-hand threaded fastener (often Torx/T40, hex, or similar depending on the exact model). It frequently shows threadlocker residue.
Note the threaded end and central hole for the retaining screw on the spindle.
For the chuck interior / screw removal process. open jaws fully to access the screw, then using an Allen key or similar to break the chuck free.
The easy permanent-ish fix (red Loctite method) is the common DIY solution that avoids relying on the fragile screw going forward.
- Remove the battery. Open the chuck jaws fully.
- Remove the left-hand retaining screw (turn clockwise to loosen — reverse thread). If it’s already broken, extract the stub carefully (left-hand bit, extractor, heat if Loctite was present, etc.).
- Break the chuck free from the spindle. Common method: tighten a large Allen key (or suitable bar) into the jaws, support the tool, and strike the key sharply counterclockwise (or use a cheater bar / impact carefully). Some people resort to cutting the chuck off if it’s seized.
- Clean the spindle threads and the internal threads of the chuck thoroughly (remove old Loctite, grease, debris).
- Apply high-strength red Loctite (e.g., Loctite 271 or 262) to the spindle threads and/or chuck threads.
- Thread the chuck back on and torque it down hard (factory torque specs on similar tools are high, often in the hundreds of in-lbs range for the chuck itself).
- Optionally reinstall a new retaining screw with a bit of Loctite as well, or omit it entirely once the chuck is permanently locked by the red threadlocker. The red Loctite is what now prevents reverse unscrewing.
Red Loctite creates a near-permanent bond that resists vibration and torque; removal later requires localized heat (~450–500 °F / ~230–260 °C) to soften it. This is intentional for the “set it and forget the tiny screw” approach.
Many users report this eliminates the recurring screw-failure problem on high-torque Milwaukee tools. Clean metal-to-metal contact is important for the Loctite to work properly. Allow full cure time (typically 24 hours for full strength).
Notes specific to the 2809-20 Super Hawg
This is a high-power right-angle drill with a keyed 1/2" chuck. The same left-hand retaining screw principle applies. Parts diagrams and service literature for related M18 tools show the chuck screw (various part numbers such as 05-88-xxxx series left-hand screws) and emphasize careful removal (sometimes with heat to break factory threadlocker). Always confirm the exact screw for your serial number if replacing one.
If the screw has already broken and the stub is stuck, left-hand drill bits or screw extractors used in reverse are the usual first approach. In extreme cases people cut the chuck off and replace it.
This fix is widely discussed among tool techs and users. The tiny screw is the weak link under heavy reverse torque. Red Loctite on the main chuck threads is the simple, robust workaround.
