I read with interest the discussions about insurance and water heaters. The problem I believe is the pilot light.
My heater had been a problem for years so I replace it with an excel from Excelamerica LLC. It is about the same size and I only had to move the top mounting bole 3/8 of an inch and it fit right in. It has not piolet light, electric ignition(two d cells ,no wiring required). The absences of the piolet light means all I haft to do is turn on the procaine and I have hot water.
It’s also because there is no positive exterior exhaust venting. If winds can blow down through the stack, then it’s not allowed.
You need a system with a power vented exhaust, and no pilot light.
Otherwise, convert to a 120 volt/engine 6 gallon heater system. I went with this system and love it. It retains heat for close to 12 hours once the engine shuts down or you disconnect from shore power. If your cruising, you will be running the engine to charge batteries every once in a while as it is, so your water tank is back up to maximum hot water.
The water heater tank system is about $300 , plus plumbing, and wiring to a dedicated 15 Amp AC breaker. I mounted it between the prop stuffing box and vertical rudder gussets.
Jack Dokter
Nine Lives 26c w21 099
Penetanguishene On
I agree with Jack. I’ve never regretted replacing my propane unit with the engine/120 V unit. Mine actually gives me shower water 24 hrs after engine shut down, but then I live in the south. I’ve photos of my installation if wanted.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
When I purchased Fate in 2012, I replaced the Paloma with an Excel. It worked but did not always stay on. That is, I'd open the hot water faucet, the water heater would come on, give me some hot water, but then shut off. The folks at Excelamerica tried to be helpful and told me settings on the heater to change. That helped, but did not totally fix the problem. They told me that my water pressure might not be quite high enough for the heater's sensor. However, this year they came out with a new model that has a totally different sensor and it is not affected by low water pressure. I installed the new model and it works perfectly! I'm very pleased with it.
So, if the unit is ventless, then where’s the exhaust venting out to?..directly in the cabin? If your burning propane, you will have carbon monoxide emissions.
Jack
Ventless or not, one of the byproducts is CO and you need adequate ventilation whenever you are using the stove, heater, water heater or other propane burning appliance. I suppose a power vented exhaust would help to ensure this automatically (but just for the water heater). I open the hatch and several ports. I also have a CO monitor which I believe is essential for all boats. (I also have a propane detector/alarm wired to the solenoid.)
… Is supposed to act as a safety, but I will not trust it. The ODS seems to be extremely sensitive, and I think it cuts out way on the safe side. Even so, no vent is a (serious) accident waiting to happen.
Bill Baxter
Persistence #507
Penetang ON
Currently windbound in Snug Harbour north of Parry Sound
Hello, I just purchased a 1984 30’ Ultra that has a very rust Paloma water heater, it is vented through a chimney and I woukld like to replace it with a vented model. Is the Excel vented and could you tell me the model number of that new model that you nare happy with?
Many Thanks,
A few weeks ago, I also installed the Excel model Paul cites. In my case it replaced a Rinnai which must be very similar to the Paloma units which most of our boats appear to have been originally equipped with. I have been using it vent free and it appears to work quite well. Mine is the new version which requires only a 2 PSI pressure change to activate the main burner.
If any owner out there has a Rinnai unit that they are trying to limp along with I would be happy to pass along my old heater for parts. All you need to do is let me know and reimburse me for shipping. I’m not sure which component of my Rinnai no longer functions but it has something to do with the unit transitioning from pilot mode to main burner activation.
I found that when I tried it vent free the amount of moist heat released inside the boat was untenable, especially as it was trapped in the over sink cabinet.
I do love the instant hot water any time anywhere though.
To each his own but I would never go back to an engine heat dependent tank.
My engine/110V unit may not be instant, it does take 10 minutes before I can take a shower, but it’s always there without turning anything on. Whether in a slip or at anchor, I do have to run the engine anyway to get underway. The hot water will last 24 to 48 hours. I would never return to the propane unit as I would lose the extra storage and 2nd dorade vent.
I second your vote for your engine/110 volt preference.
Wind Rose has that setup with a Paloma for instant hot water when away from the dock.
Since I recently added another 440 Ah battery bank ( total 880 Ah) and a 6000 watt inverter, I tried a simple experiment today.
I disconnected shore power and turned on the inverter - which is wired into “shore power” using a 6 foot long shore power cord plugged into a female shore deck plug - turned on the 110 v water heater and watched the battery monitor tell me I was using 1500 watts.
The hot water reached temp in 20 minutes or so and used a total of 67 Ah, which I think is great - the engine will recharge that in no time
