Paul,
Have you ever snapped off the head of the screw that attaches the chuck to the body? Or do you just avoid using it in reverse?
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville MD
Actually I had a headroom issue with my dodger window so I reduced the height by drilling and tapping my Cranker bit and threading it directly onto the 1/2”-20 Chuck thread with red Locktite.
You can also Locktite the chuck on and you won’t snap the reverse screw.
Yes, totally avoid reverse!
Bill prange
Hawkeye, NS 26U #233
SF Bay
Reverse really is not a problem if you Locktite the chuck threads. I hauled a rigger to the top of my mast yesterday on low (reverse) speed and I harden my luff all the time with it.
Thanks for answering my questions Jim & Dick! And for all the information everyone else - I’m going to shop for an M28.
In 2010, I restored the surface of the cabin top and could not understand why it was so hard to raise the sail to its full height until I realised that the anti-skid of the new finish was acting as a brake that increased its grip as pressure increased. The solution was to install a second fairlead between the first and the winch to lift the halliard clear of the cabin top. Since then it has been easy to raise the sail manually on my 26. This avoided the expense of an electric winch which would have overcome the friction, but not solved the problem of increased halliard wear. The solution saved the expense of buying a power source to raise sail and then having to maintain it.
Last year I moved the main halliard winch from outboard to inbord next to the hatch. This allowed me full use of the two speed winch that was prevented when the winch handle was prevented from full rotations by being blocked by the bimini. This sped the sail raising operation which is a blessing when sailing single handed.
John Newell
Mascouche 26C1
Toronto
Hello Paul,
I hope you don’t mind me replying to you directly regarding this old thread, especially since you don’t know me!
I love those wooden boxes you have for your Milwaukee drill and was wondering if you had them made or know how I could replicate them? It seems to me something like that is very necessary to avoid that heavy drill from rolling around and getting in the way.
Thanks!
Ken Julian
“Idyll Ours II” NS26C#9
Fredericton, NB
Thanks Ken, they are very simple.
I made them up from some teak scraps. One is a simple box made to the dimensions of the drill battery and has a couple of screws in the bottom holding it in place. The dark circles on the photo are scupper holes so water can’t sit in it. The other is just a block with a hole in it that fits the winch bit.
It fits the way it does because I removed the chuck and shortened the bit.
Hope this helps.
OK. Thanks Paul. You’re obviously a much better wood worker than myself but I’ll see what I can do!
Ken J.
For what it’s worth, I was recently watching a youtube video Sailing Uma and in that episode they explained how they use their Maxwell windlass as a power winch. It’s a model that has a capstan on top which can be used without turning the gipsy. Seems like a natural fit for the forward location of the Nonsuch mast if you prefer going forward to raise your sail.
Ron
N22 Magic Time
Punta Gorda Fl