Ignition/Solenoid/Starter Issues

Hello all
I just picked up this 'ignition/solenoid/starter' thread today, as I've been off line for a few days.
I had a similar problem, which I described on this listserve a couple of years ago. I will repeat my final solution for this.

- the original multi-tasking keyed ignition switch (on/glow/start) failed unbeknownst to me (it stayed in 'starter on' position after engine was running). This fried the starter and the wiring right back to the battery, and melted my main battery switch into a lump of plastic and brass. No flames, but lots of smoke and stink. And several days work to put it all back together, with new wiring, switches and starter (and a nifty little teak dashboard for the new glow/start switches).

- my final solution was to isolate the switch functions:
* The key switch is replaced with a simple on/off toggle switch, standard switch fits beautifully and I do not worry about losing or breaking a key anymore
* I put two momentary contact switches in - for glow plugs and starter. These are under the lazarette lid just below the instrument panel (which is mounted on the face of the stbd coaming adjacent helm).

This setup works fine for me. With the batteries turned off and the cabin locked, nobody can start the engine so it is secure as with a key. I can also lock the lazarette (securing the start/glow buttons) as an additional security measure.

Greg Silver
Misty Cat
NS 26C #121
St. Peter's, Cape Breton

You win. I feel fortunate that the similar failure on my boat was less catastrophic than it was on yours. Your new setup sounds like a good way to go but I suppose your momentary starter switch could also fail. I gather that the setup I have is unusual in that there is no pre-solenoid or relay between the ignition and the starter solenoid, so the relatively long wire run from the ignition to the starter solenoid has to carry full solenoid current.

Regards, Dave

I have a 1989 N26C (#249) with two 2005 Interstate 24M-XHD lead acid
batteries. I charge them on a trickle all winter. I have a battery selector
switch that has four positions: Up is BOTH, left is #1, Right is #2, Bottoms
is OFF. I do not have shore power. I do not have refrigeration. When I start
my Universal M-25 XP 3 cylinder for a sail, I turn the key to the right,
push the glow plug button for 10-15 seconds, and then push the start button.
The diesel starts right away in any of the three positions. I have the
following CBs on: Instruments (Depth & Speed only), VHF and a Lewmar 40
electric winch. I usually take 30-45 minutes to get out of the Pocasset
River into Buzzards Bay, then raise the sail and get under way before
shifting into neutral, then pulling the "T" handle for engine shut down,
then key to off. Recently, after the sail of 3 plus hours I have had a
no-start issue in any of the positions - i.e. no starter, no noise. I wait
60 seconds, then the engine starts. I had the batteries checked and they are
OK. Has anyone experienced this situation. I have read the threads on
solenoid replacement and starter overhaul, and wiring. I think this winter I
will have the wiring replaced, R2 the solenoid and replace the Batteries.
With just two batteries, what are the best options for my situation?
Regards, Bob Horne, ENCORE.

You need to troubleshoot the problem when it’s happening. If done correctly, should be able to find the problem. I’d look for a bad ground on the engine from the negative terminals on the batteries.
Joe

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