My mainsheet block (the one mounted just above the center of the transom) is shot. The bearings are detroyed. I suspect it may have been original equipment. A Garhauer single block 2 3/8" in diameter, 4 1/2" long and 3/4" wide (inside).
I’m not having a lot of luck finding an appropriate replacement. I’ve snooped around on the Garhauer website and have emailed them for help. Waiting for a response. In the meantime - wondered if anyone in our group has some advice?
Hi Deanne,
Pretty sure that isn’t original equipment. They usually had Schaefer blocks. I’ma year in with a Nonsuch so someone else which years of experience might have a better answer but you don’t have to use Garhauer. They are excellent value and very good blocks so find a similar Garhauer block or Harken cruising block or any other major brand. I was told that there’s no reason to go bigger is better because if you accidentally gybe in a big blow it’s better to break the $60 block than tear our your stern.
Hope this helps.
David Godfrey
NS30C #145 Thursdays Child
RNSYS Halifax NS
My understanding is that most of the early Nonsuch boats were equipped with blocks made by Merriman. The boats were not built as a class and as a result there were variations between boats. Some may have been equipped with blocks from different manufacturers. Also over time variations arose with regards to rigging, either by the factory or owners.
The 30 Classic manual identifies the blocks in the mainsheet system as: Mainsheet upper swivel black, mainsheet lower deck block with becket and mainsheet fairlead single block. All blocks are specified with working loads of 2450 lbs. As noted by David Godfrey there are many different companies that make excellent blocks that will work for this application as long as they meet the safe working load requirement.
It is a bit difficult to tell from the photo but it looks like a prior owner had made a modification to the system. Rather than a lower block with becket as originally used by Hinterhoeller it looks like a pad eye has been mounted to the rear deck. The fixed end of the sheet is tied off to the pad eye. The sheet runs up to the upper mainsheet swivel block and then back down to another swivel block (without becket) and from there to the mainsheet fairlead block. Is that correct? That arrangement spreads the load on the deck area compared to the a block with a becket. If you are looking to simply replace the block shown in the picture your task is fairly easy because you don’t have a bolt pattern to match, you will just have to find a block that works with your line size and meets the working load requirements. Block recommendations based on vessel size do not translate to the Nonsuch fleet. The main sail on a Nonsuch 30 is generally twice the size of a main salon on a sloop rigged 30. I suggest you call the support group at the manufacturer and talk to them to see what they are recommending given the required working load and sheet size.
Below are some samples of blocks i found that meet the safe working loads required that might provide you with a starting point.
The Schaefer single block 08-05 or the M66-05 also meet the safe working load requirements but both seem to be much more expensive than the Harken or Garhauer. Harken and Schaefer have 5 year warranties and Garhauer has a 10 warranty.
Thanks very much Mark!
Lots of useful information there.
I reassembled the block as the previous owner had rigged it so you can better see the setup. Your links led me to another block that has similar specs and the (minor) advantage of a polished stainless finish that seems in keeping with most of the other blocks in the rig.
Deane, I’m pretty sure tying a bowline through the centre of the block is not correct. I don’t think this style of block was designed to be used in this manner. My boat, a 30U, has a block with a becket.
Don
The standing end of the line attaches to the becket. It is better to have an eye splice but if you use the existing line you will have to stick with a knot.
The 40 is rated at 2800 lbs. The 30 is rated at 2400 lbs. For the price difference I would go with the 40. The US designation indicates unibody stainless.
You could go with a standing block but the bolt pattern would not match the existing holes.
If you’re an International Nonsuch Association member with an N26 or N30, you can get a complete list of the replacement blocks recommended by Garhauer for your boat by going to the STORE tab, clicking on REPLACEMENT BLOCKS, and selecting your boat size, as shown in this screen clip:
