Before I can raise sail this season I will have to replace the main sheet block, at the center point of the transom, which I noticed last fall is ready to fail. Older members (Bill) may remember Laurie Simone had a near death experience with a similar failure several years ago in rough weather on Lake Ontario while returning from the Toronto Gathering.
The original equipment appears to be held by screws, or bolts, directly into the fiber glass, if bolts I’m not sure how you would get at the nuts inside the transom behind the emergency tiller port. If anyone has made this repair and has suggestions I would be most grateful for advice. Anyone that still has the original equipment on their boats should take a good look, having the boom swinging wildly in rough seas and a strong blow is not a good idea.
I do remember reading something along the lines of adding a fixed eye and not using the beckett on the block helped by reducing the load on the block itself by half. It was in one of the newsletters.
Sorry - a 26 owner, no experience on a 30, but maybe someone will remember the reference?
One point of caution, Alan – some people advocate replacing that block with a much larger or stronger one. The downside of that is instead of the block failing, the deck may. I prefer the block failure!
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
It looks like the block on mine has been replaced; it is through bolted (the thought of screws just makes me shudder, I can’t believe Hinterhoeller would not have through bolted this) - there is a stainless backing plate, a little small for my taste. I’d like to eventually add a larger plywood load spreader under the stainless backing plate. Access isn’t super convenient, but like everything else down there, get everything you need before you go down or have someone handy to chase tools and parts for you!
Since I won’t need mine for Pondus new rig, I removed the block. It was through bolted, and I think it was the original way it was fastened. Once on my way through the Western Gap to Toronto Harbour in 30 kn wind, turbulence from the condo buildings whip-lashed the wishbone in two uncontrolled jibes, the second of which broke the choker eye off the boom and the new safety line off the topping lift. Fortunately, I had the pennant secured on a cleat, but with no choker the end of the boom was low and difficult to control. what saved my from drifting into the lee stonewall, was my electric motor which is always on tap. It allowed me to slowly head up so I could lift the boom on to the pedestal and lash it down, and drop the sail. The boom made quite a racket on the mast getting back to the dock. Since then I lashed the choker to the boom. I am happy to say that during our trials last season with the new rig, I found life without the boom very satisfying.
The solution to all of this is to replace your engine with an electric motor !!
OK - I’m kidding. Jorgen’s boat, aside from being a thing of beauty, is a true test bed for electric power, a different sail/boom combo and who-knows-what next ?? Fantastic ideas come out of this guy.
Back to the block - Joe is right… better the block busts than anything else. My boat is the baby - an N22. I never liked the block and becket attached solely to the stern light fixture (even tho it is probably adequate). I, like some others, split the load. There was a thread about all of this a couple of years ago. I, too, am certain that, regardless of the boat size, etc., NOTHING was simply screwed in. I have easy access to the entire transom and used a fair size plywood backing plate. It didn’t take long for others to suggest that I should have used starboard. In any case, what I did was probably overkill and I have full confidence in it.
I have attached a photo. Splitting the load is way easier on the load point(s).
Or … you can bolt a padeye in each corner and run a piece of dyneema or a steel cable between them with a traveling mainsheet block - some folks do that. It splits the load and … well, you’ll have to ask those folks who use this arrangement about how their boats sail (but I think that they like the arrangement).
Noticed your mention of Starboard as a backing material. The Aug, 2016 issue of Practical Sailor specifically recommends against using this for backing because “they creep, distort, and crack over time, providing no protection against flexing and gelcoat cracking, and little protection against core failure. Don’t use these.”
You are quite right, Cedric. A better way would be a splice with a thimble in it. BTW, even in North Carolina, it’s been a little bit chilly. Hope to start our Wednesday Night races next week, as today, the first day of spring, was too cold.
Joe Valinoti
Int’l Nonsuch Assoc.
Tank Program Manager
I used a piece of 3/4" marine ply. It will NEVER rot or bust. But, sho ’ nuff, several people wrote in that I should have used Starboard. Good old Practical Sailor …
I put a knot in my mainsheet after the splice let go in Toronto’s Eastern Gap a few years ago. Luckily the wind and waves were low. It could have been much more exciting. I often sail solo and am not shy about sailing in 25 knots of wind.
I know it’s not seaman like to use knots rather than splices but over the years as I have had to replace control lines on our boat that is what I have done, too. The only splices I’ve renewed are the rope to chain splices on our anchor rotes and those only because knots won’t go through the windlass. FWIW, I’ve never had either a splice or knot fail under load.
Although splices are certainly better than knots, modern line often has more than enough breaking strength to accomodate knots’ reduction in strength, IMHO.
