On my Nonsuch 26C the rudder will move through an arc of about 110 degrees from one stop to the other, or 55 degrees off center on either side. I recently read that at rudder angles over 35 degrees the rudder acts as a brake and further, that excessive rudder angles can lead to damage.
If my drawing is correct I would need to add an inch and a half to each rudder stop to limit the rudder travel to 35 degrees off center on each side. Any thoughts on this? What could possibly go wrong?
With that being said I would like to limit the travel of my rudder a bit by adding additional material to the rudder stops. Has anyone else made this modification ?
This sounds like a good idea. I would suggest that if your 26c is like my 30c, you beef up the fiberglass that the rudder stop strikes to reduce the angle and not thicken the aluminum stop that is on the quadrant. This way you can also beef up a what I would consider to be an underbuilt area and potential point of failure. Why do I think that? See attached picture from 2014. To fix this, I beefed up the fiberglass, which did reduced the arc of travel a little but not as much as you are proposing.
Thanks for pointing this out Randy. I have been wondering why I have been having such a hard time backing out of my slip. The rudder can go way over 35° so it makes sense that the rudder stalls and prop walk (in the wrong direction) takes over.
I am going to reduce the movement to 35° in each direction and report back. It might be a little while, my beautiful daughter (and chief engineer) has been in contact with someone who is a covoid contact so she is lying low until she gets her test results. This is too close to home.
I don’t understand the problem. It looks like you have a solution looking for a problem. I suspect that the designers know more then we do about the steering angles and stops.
I suspect that my stops have been reworked. I don’t know why. What I have taken out is, in my opinion, totally inadequate for the job. It is a cable system anchored to the flimsy boards on either side of the lazerette. The concept seems sound but the cable used wouldn’t hold my pants up and it has cracked the boards. So I am doubtful of the competence of the designer of this system.
Give that and the fact that the boat does not answer going astern convinces me that there is a problem so I am going to try it stopped at 35 degrees with a solid anchor and a short spring to cushion the tug and see if there is an improvement. What could possibly go wrong?
The rudder setup on a 26 is just a bit different as there is one stop located on the steering transit wheel. It is a round aluminum slug with a thin rubber bumper attached. Your setup is the same as the one in a NS 30U I was on last week. I did not think too much of those skinny aluminum stops which strike the gussets either, and the gussets had the same damage as yours.
To me it looks like the same hack job to accommodate the steering quadrant was done on your stern stern gusset as mine. I carefully constructed my replacement rear gusset so it could be sealed in epoxy, and made sure that there was adequate clearance between the quadrant and the gusset to prevent wear. When I replaced this gusset on my 26 it was rotten from top to bottom.
My new gussets are marine plywood with beveled edges that are covered with epoxy to prevent water intrusion and damage.
I think your rear gusset could be improved by putting 3/4 marine ply on each side of the rear gusset limit rudder travel a bit. In my opinion, it does not look kike your gusset is deteriorated to the point that it would need replacement.
My concern with reducing the steering effect of the rudder could be a problem in an emergency when you need all the rudder you can get when trying to avoid another boat, or object in the water. I can attest to that, having been in that situation once where I was rammed and dismasted. When backing, it’s not necessary to put the helm hard over to steer.
Randy, after reading your comment about 3/4” plywood pads on the stern gusset, I looked in my boat photos to see what mine looks like. Turns out it has two 3/4” plywood pads.
I can see your point. I also can understand how the rudder would act as a brake when used at a high angle. If I make this modification it will happen after the end of the season and will be done in such a way that can easily be returned to the original configuration.
Paul: I would be very concerned about what looks like the drain hose from your propane locker. It takes a dip and can hold water thereby trapping any propane that might leak from your tank assembly. This was discussed on the listserve a few times in the past.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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Thanks for the thought Joe but that was one of the first things I noticed and changed after I bought the boat. However it looks in the photo it is now downhill all the way. The before picture will show you how bad it was before.
I agree with Bob the steering tube gussets are not very strong. I doubled mine by glassing in some 3/4 ply basically doubling the thickness.
As for the angle. Very useful to have when manoeuvring in a new narrow fairway. I think can literally make the boat do circles in the same 26 space. I'd be reluctant to change the angle. Rarely is the wheel over 1/4 of a turn.
Cheers Thor
Today I finally completed refurbishing my steering system.
As mentioned above I set the steering stops to 35°.
What I found was there was comfortable clearance between the thimble on the end of the cable and the drive chain sprocket at the wheel (Maybe an inch).
Also this setting resulted in one turn to full lock. I have yet to do a test drive.
I got interested in my steering when it failed. I was pulling out of my slip. The stop anchor gave (this was not the factory installation and was totally inadequate) and the cable lifted the chain off the sprocket. Some time, long ago, someone had fashioned an emergency tiller by extending the handle on a monkey wrench. It would probably have worked if it had been properly adjusted when it rusted solid. Made for an interesting few minutes but it could have been a lot worse.
See attached photo of the old steering cables. The thimbles are deformed and the cables are frayed where it has been running into the sprocket. Those thinbles are tough, it would take some force to deform them like that. I also found that the cable clamps were installed wrong but that had no part in the original problem. Who knew that there was a right and wrong way to install a cable clamp? I do now.
FWIW- If you are unsure about your rudder angle and stops, it is probably worthwhile to take a peek inside the binicel and make sure the cable is not trying to override the sprocket and that the cable is in good condition. It only took about 10 min. to get inside the binicel.
All the best.
Mike Jennings.
NS005 Salt Coats.
Port Moody BC.
