The early 26s were not fitted with rudder stops or had ones that were not up to the task due to the large surface area of the rudder and the forces it can generate under power. Is there a consensus on the limiting angle of the stops? What is recommended?
I just had to modify the existing stops because they were not in the right
place causing some grinding noises at the limits. The stops on my 26 are
simply bolted to the plywood web supporting the rudder tube. They are two ¼
inch by 2 by 8inch aluminum plates with three ¼ 20 bolts into the plywood
web..
The quadrant has a bolt with a heavy rubber sleeve on the underside forward
edge.
These in combination mean the rudder swings 120 degrees total or two full
rotations of the wheel. At full stop, or 60 degrees, the boat spins on a
dime so Id say this is enough.
I agree these stops are not strong but it is the plywood web they are bolted
to that is the weak link. Before I bought the boat the seal at the bottom of
the rudder tube leaked and the plywood was always wet. They are dry now
(thanks to 3M 4200 and advice from this list) but may be weak under the
glass due to rot. I think you have to have a stop of some type, just never
force the rudder, and never let the wheel go when you are traveling in
reverse.
Come to think of it, if the rudder were allowed to swing to 90 degrees that
would be a pretty effective brake. If it could swing past 90 degrees the
rudder end would hit the hull and you would be in serious trouble if it got
stuck there.
My copy of Chapman, which admittedly is quite old, says, on page 116,
Naval vessels usually have a maximum rudder angle of 35 degrees
That seems a lot to me. I am sure I have read, but cannot find the
reference, that beyond 15 degrees, the turning effectiveness is not as great
as the braking effectiveness, which is important, mostly, in racing
situations.
Point well taken, but I have often found sailboat rudders to be very useful as brakes and would not want to lose that ability.
I trust, however, that everyone knows to keep a firm hand on the wheel when in reverse to avoid letting the rudder snap to its stops – sometimes breaking them.
Allen Ames
Doug Caldwell wrote:
My copy of Chapman, which admittedly is quite old, says, on page 116, “……Naval vessels usually have a maximum rudder angle of 35 degrees”
That seems a lot to me. I am sure I have read, but cannot find the reference, that beyond 15 degrees, the turning effectiveness is not as great as the braking effectiveness, which is important, mostly, in racing situations.
Reverse at high speed was part of my lessons as a newby…Lesson learned.
Sailed with my son and girlfriend today and coming in I was in a busy channel and picked up enough weeds to foul the prop…my son suggested reverse and that worked. I guess I had a good crew for the day.
Challenging first year this has been. Still have not practiced the Huson River gybe as scarring potential crew
might sway them from returning. No racing yet either. Great sailing today though.
Thanks
Jim Jones
TIM CAT 30U 342
Port Credit ON Pt Credit Harbour Marina
West-Lake Ontario Fleet
While more than 15 degrees cannot be effectively used while sailing, up to 35 degrees or perhaps more is useful while maneuvering. This is especially true of a fin keel spade rudder boat such as the Nonsuch. When turning tightly under power, the stern is moving through the water at quite an angle to the heading, therefore the flow the rudder sees has already a large angle to the keel. In these circumstances, more rudder will be effective in turning the boat in a tighter radius.
If you are considering stops other than the very rudimentary ones fitted by the factory, I suggest something soft: a small piece of vinyl dock edging works well, or urethane bumpers available from industrial suppliers. If the rudder slams the stops, the amount of force imparted to all of the components involved is greatly reduced if the stop is slightly soft, compared to hard bits.
Jon Fitch
‘Anomaly’
Currently lying Thunder Bay Michigan