Things to Know When Looking to Buy a Nonsuch (Document)

[jonlewit (Jon Lewit - N26C #115 - Inua - Kingston, NY)]

Things to Know When Looking to Buy a Nonsuch

Contributors in Alphabetical Order:
Butch Garren, Mark Hinneman, Phil LeVine, Jorgen Moller, Robert Neches,
Thor Powell, Mark Powers, Paul Miller, Ron Schryver, Ed Strazzini, Joe Valinotti

Forward

This quick guide on buying Nonsuches is the product of contributions by nearly a dozen Nonsuch owners acting in the tradition of the International Nonsuch Association: owners helping each other (including future owners) get the most from the experience of owning one of these boats.

Of the nearly 1000 Nonsuch, Naiad (a rare 18 foot open boat design) and Nereus (a double-masted design buit in small numbers) sailboats, ranging from 18 to 40 ft, the Association is aware of over 800 still operating. In any given year, the INA generally finds between 60-70% of all Nonsuch owners among its members. We believe ourselves to be among the largest boat owner groups that manage to operate solely through enthusiasm of volunteer owners without subsidy from the manufacturer or other source.

That enthusiasm for Nonsuches, going on more than three decades after the factory closed its doors, is due to the unique design, the resulting ease of operation, and the relatively high build quality compared to many other production models.

The boats tend to be good values, and thus fare well on the used boat market. Our hope in offering this guide is that informed buyers will be better prepared and happier owners. Our purpose as an association is to facilitate owners helping each o

ther get the most out of owning, sailing, and maintaining our boats.

We wish you the best in finding a Nonsuch that meets your needs, and invite you to join the INA when you’ve found your boat.

Deciding if this is the right boat for you

Level of boathandling skills required

These are all fairly forgiving boats. Because they have a single sail with the mast well forward, rather than the more familiar mainsail and jib rig, it takes some learning to to sail them well. Sailing them “good enough” is not hard. If you buy one and join the International Nonsuch Association, you will find a number of sailing and docking tips in the Guide for New Owners, as well as documents and videos accessible through the Nonsuch.org website that will help you.
Depending on the model you pick, it is important to ensure that either it has the right equipment (e.g., properly sized and working winches), or you have the physical strength to handle the greater weight and forces that may come with larger sails. Older or smaller owners tend to particularly appreciate boats with electric winches (or larger sized winches), or use other aids (which range from longer winch handles, to electric drills with attachments that fit the winch, to commercially sold power handles like the WinchRite or E-Wincher). Also appreciated by many owners are masts and sails that have been upgraded to use Tides Marine Sail Track. This is an ultra-slippery after-market track that slides over the original track and greatly reduces friction. This makes raising and lowering the large sails much easier.

Intended use

All of the Nonsuches were originally designed to be fast, easy-to-sail, “couples’ coastal cruising” boats. The Classic interior layout is an open plan with more room for individuals. The Ultra models have more traditional interiors with more privacy for couples. The more people you intend to carry, particularly on longer trips, the more thought you’ll need to give to arrangements. If you want to live aboard, they are comfortable and remarkably roomy for one or two people versus any other sailboat of the same length.

They are great boats for singlehanders or where a majority of those on board are happy to be passengers. If the folks on board are eager to participate, you have to be willing to share the helm because otherwise, there’s not much for them to do. Similarly, extra thought needs to be given to sailing with children, because there are fewer tasks that can be assigned to make them feel engaged. If you want to race, they are surprisingly fast and generally competitive. They lose speed faster than other boats if pointed too high, but can make up for that on other parts of a course.

If you want to sail offshore and are not buying one already refitted for that purpose, you need to be prepared to make a number of modifications to improve their safety. Documents on this topic can be found on the Nonsuch.org website. Especially if you do not already have substantial offshore experience, we strongly urge that you obtain them before proceeding. Recommended modifications include, but are not limited to: adding an extra halyard, installing a dedicated stormsail track, modifying the companionway, and increasing cockpit drainage.

Maintenance

A section below focuses on what areas of a Nonsuch to look at, and where work is likely to be needed. The boats are generally appreciated because they were relatively well-built as production boats go, and relatively well-designed for maintenance in comparison to other boats. That, along with the interior room enabled by their unique design, is why they command higher prices on the used boat markets compared to other boats of similar age and size. But, very good does not mean perfect. These boats are not young. You should evaluate each prospective purchase with self-awareness as to how much work it will need, how much you want to do yourself, and how much it will cost to pay for other work that will be needed. Keep in mind that not everything needs to be fixed immediately. Consider prioritizing safety issues first, followed by ease of use, stopping any leaks, convenience features and amenities, and finally appearance and cosmetics. This approach will give you more chances to enjoy the boat while improvements are still in progress.

Pocketbook

As already mentioned, a Nonsuch will probably cost a bit more because of their reputation, performance and roominess. Expect that – like all older boats regardless of make – there will be refitting costs on top of the initial purchase price. Keep in mind that size will affect both purchase price and ongoing costs for moorage, haul-outs, and maintenance (also true for any other make of boat.) If you live where boats are hauled out annually, and masts must be removed, plan to supervise removal and reinstallation of the wishbone and unstayed mast closely, since many yards are not familiar with them. At the same time, a Nonsuch’s single big sail will probably end up costing less over the long run than two smaller ones on a conventional rig. Our rigs also seem to be a bit easier on sails; owners report longer lives for well-made Nonsuch sails than are typical for sails on sloops.

What are the differences between the sizes and the models?

Mark Ellis designed all five sizes of the Nonsuch boats: 22’, 26’, 30’, 33’ and 36’. There were different models produced within that size range. Nonsuches were not class boats so there are variations within each model, as well as some owner modifications during and after production. What follows will be a brief description of the models, then copies of the lay outs and some basic data. Related boats, i.e., the Nereus 40 and the Naiad 18, are not covered here. Owners who join the International Nonsuch Association will be able to download a wide range of information about each of the Nonsuch models, as well as the Naiad, including manuals, brochures, shop drawings, more detailed specifications, and reviews published in various sailing magazines. Unfortunately, less information is available about the few Nereus 40’s that were built.

General

Most of the sails on all Nonsuch models were equipped with two sets of reef points, each with a pair of separate fore and aft slab-reefing lines. The 260, 324 and 354 sails also had two slab reefs but used a single line reefing system. The sails are loose footed. All have wishbone booms with the exception of one 30, White Cat (mentioned below), and a few 26s recently modified by owners to gaff rigs. The decks and cabin tops on all of the models were cored with end grain balsa, plywood in some areas and solid glass in a few areas. The hulls of the 22 and 26 are solid glass. The other models’ hulls have end grain balsa cores.

22 Footers

Approximately 58 were built between 1984 and 1987 – The majority came from the factory with inboard diesel engines, usually an eight HP Westerbeke and the rest with outboard gasoline engines, usually a 9.9 HP Yamaha. The 22s had one cabin layout.

26 Footers

Three 26-foot models were produced: the 26 Classic (approx. 205), the 26 Ultra (approx. 44) and the 260 (approx. 9). The 26 Classic was built between 1981 and 1990, the Ultra between 1985 and 1990. The 260s were built in 1995. The Classics and Ultras were built with either a standard draft keel of 4’6” or a shoal draft of 3’9”, both with aluminum mast and boom. The shoal draft keel had a Scheel keel, which has a small flare at the bottom. At least one of the 26s with standard draft also had a Scheel keel installed. The 260 came with a draft of 3’10” with a small bulb at the bottom and carbon fiber mast and boom. Most of the 26s had straight shaft drive Westerbeke diesels of 13 HP, 18 HP or 21 HP. A small number may have had Volvo sail drives installed. The 260s came with an 18 HP Yanmar and straight shaft. The interior layouts were different across these models. The Ultra proved to be more popular than the Classic, with sales of approximately 2:1 after the Ultra’s introduction.

30 Footers

Three 30-foot models were also produced: the 30 Classic (approx. 242), the 30 Ultra (approx. 275) and the 324 (approx. 11). The 30 Classic was built between 1978 and 1989, the Ultra between 1983 and 1990. The 324s were built between 1994 and 1996. The Classics and Ultras were built with aluminum masts and booms and either a standard draft keel of 5’ or a shoal draft of 3’ 11.5”. The 324 came with a draft of 4’4” with a small bulb at the bottom and carbon fiber mast and boom. Some early 30 came with a 25 hp Volvo diesel and saildrive. Later Classic and Ultra 30s were equipped with a 27 or 33 hp Westerbeke and a vee-drive transmission. We know of one that had a straight drive with a Westerbeke. The 324s came with a 27 hp Yanmar G3M30 diesel and straight shaft. The interior layouts were different on all three modes. The Ultra proved to be more popular than the Classic with sales of approximately 275 Ultras vs 44 Classics following the Ultra’s introduction. The cockpit of the Classic is slightly longer than the cockpits on the Ultra and 324. One of the early 30s was called White Cat. She did not have a boom and was equipped with a rotating mast, used to furl the sail.

33 Footers

Within the 33-foot range, two models were produced: the 33 (approx. 65) and the 354 (approx. 7). The 33s were built between 1988 and 1992 except for one additional semi-custom boat completed in 1996. They were fitted with 30 hp Universal M35V diesel engines. The 354s were built in 1995-96. The 33s and 354s all came with essentially the same lay out. However, some of the 33s had an enclosed double rear cabin while others had an open double quarter berth with a navigation table. The 33s were built with aluminum masts and booms, and either a standard draft keel of 5’4” or a shoal draft of 4’4”. The 354s came with a draft of 4’10” with a small bulb at the bottom and carbon fiber mast and boom. The standard engine on the 33s was a 30 hp Westerbeke with a vee-drive. The 354s came with a Yanmar 3JH diesel rated at 30 hp although at least one had a 37 hp Westerbeke installed. Some boats were fitted with larger engines. made about 6-8 boats using the Nonsuch 33 molds between approximately 1998 and 2008, After the Hinterhoeller company had closed its doors, another Ontario builder named Andy Wiggers used the Nonsuch 33 molds to build an additional 6-8 boats between approximately 1998-2008. Wiggers used different suppliers for components such as hatches and ports. Details are limited, but some had aluminum masts and booms while others had carbon fiber. At least two had Yanmar saildrives.

36 Footers

About 68 to 70 Nonsuch 36s were built from 1983 to 1991. The first two were built by Express Yachts and called Nighthawk 36s. All the rest were built by George Hinterhoeller as Nonsuch 36s. The Nighthawk design called for a two-masted cat ketch rig. One was built with that rig and the other with the standard single-mast cat rig. All of the Hinterhoeller-built 36s had the cat rig with aluminum mast and boom. The two Nighthawk 36s had a different layout from the other 36s, with a pilot berth and two heads in addition to the fore and aft cabins. The standard draft on the 36s was 5’6”. A shoal draft keel with 4’7” was also available. The standard engine was a 46 hp Westerbeke 52 and vee-drive transmission.

Comparative data

Interior layouts of the various models, as well as some basic data about them, appear below. There are some discrepancies regarding sail area and tankage, both within brochures and between the brochures vs. the manuals. The data below was largely taken from the brochures except the 30-footers the manuals, where the data is from their manuals. For sail areas, the hoist multiplied by the foot measurements divided by 2 was used to generate the sail area. This is a standard measurement formula, and does not take into account the roach of the sail. In the brochure some of the tankage going from U.S. gallons to liters does not match. The tables below assumedthe U.S. gallons were correct and use a conversion formula rather than the brochure numbers for the number of liters.

What to expect in terms of condition

[Ed. Note, none of the below should be considered deal-breakers. They are merely considerations to factor into purchase and pricing decisions.]

Blocks. If the boat still has the original factory-installed pulley wheels in blocks and organizers, they are old enough to have become brittle from UV exposure. Expect that you may need to replace any cracked and jammed pulleys.

Minor Gelcoat cracks and crazing typically do not represent a structural problem. However, over time may become more severe which can lead to water infiltration if left untreated.

Mast considerations. The original masts are aluminum tubes in two sections. These are the things needed to get one in top condition.

• Is there evidence of movement at the joint between the two mast sections? A gap between the upper and lower sections at the joint on the forward side of the mast will indicate this, as also will loose bolts at the mast joint.

  • If so, check whether the mast joint has been upgraded according to factory recommendations issued to address problems identified in the 1980’s. (Contact the INA for more information.) If not, this should be a high priority.

  • If these upgrades have been done, and there are still signs of movement, the mast may need epoxy filler or aluminum sheeting added between the sections and/or a more recent joint upgrade kit. Contact the INA for more information on this topic.

• Are the padeyes secure on the mast and wishbone where the boom hangers are attached, and are the boom hanger lines themselves in good shape (especially at their eyes)?

• Is the mast step in good condition and firmly attached to the hull?

• Are the bolts that position and secure the mast in the mast step tight such that the base cannot move around. Note: a word of caution…do not over-tighten the stainless bolts in the aluminum mast base as there is a risk of stripping the threading in the base.

• Ensure that the turnbuckle holding the mast down is snug such that it can’t jump out of the mast step in a seaway.

• Examine the topping lift tackle to make sure that the cable, blocks and associated fittings are in good condition.

• Many sailtracks have been upgraded with Tides Marine sail track, which drastically reduces friction raising and lowering the sail. Older tracks (15+ years) should be inspected for UV damage; if many fine cracks are observed, they may be in need of replacement.

• The forward inner edges of both sides of the wishbone boom have bumpers to protect against metal-on-metal chafing and clanging between the boom and the mast. If these have hardened or broken, they may need to be replaced. Dock bumpers or edging, sold by both marine outlets and large hardware stores, does the job quite well.

Hatches & latches. The ports on our Nonsuches were manufactured by either Beckson for earlier models or Atkins & Hoyle for the more recent models. Both companies can be reached for parts and guidance. The major wear point on these hatches is the weather stripping that keeps the water out. Water stains on the liner could be caused either by worn seals or failure of the caulking aroung the port.

Pulpit and pushpit condition. Many of the pulpits and pushpits were constructed by Stainless Outfitters in Barrie, Ontario and Klacko Marine in St. Catharines, Ontario. They have the dimensions and jigs and are capable of reproducing either.

Through hulls, hoses, drains, and valves. Many original through hulls installed were nylon. If still on the boat, these may have become brittle over time if exposed to excessive heat and UV. Those above the water line are particularly susceptible to UV deterioration. Factory installed valves were typically Marelon ball valves that have held up well, although some early models had gate valves that should be replaced. Ensure valves move freely and that the handle rotates fully. If not, they may need lubrication or further work. Check that all cockpit drains, scuppers, and hoses drain freely with no leaks.

Condition of head, hoses and holding tank. Original holding tanks were made of aluminum. An original aluminum tank 20 years or older would need to be inspected carefully for integrity; they become susceptible to pinhole leaks and corrosion. Heavy-duty plastic replacement drop-in tanks purpose-designed to fit the boats are available through the INA website.

Nav instruments. DataMarine, Danaplus and SR Mariner are original equipment. Those manufacturers have all gone out of business, but repairs/replacements are still available (http://dmimarine.com/, https://srinstruments.com/mariner-parts).

Wheel and steering. Ensure that the wheel rotates without binding from stop to stop. Binding issues are best determined and resolved prior to launch. All Nonsuches have a lubrication point for the rudder post below the cockpit, which must be filled with suitable water-resistant grease. The factory supplied an emergency tiller; make sure it is still onboard. (If not, contact the INA regarding its specifications.)

Engine. Yacht surveys often do a cursory examination of the engine. An external examination will reveal a number of things. However two simple tests will reveal what a visual inspection can not.

• Coolant pressure test. A simple pressure test will disclose small leaks in the cooling system. The tools to undertake the test can often be borrowed from local car parts stores like NAPA. Simply replace the coolant cap with the test cap, pump pressure into the system, and wait. The dial on the pump will disclose any leaking.

• An engine oil testing can be carried out for a modest cost. At the time of writing (October 2022) test kits were available for as low $30 USD. Simply obtain a test kit bottle from the laboratory. Run the engine to operating temperature, then draw a sample from the dipstick. Four ounces is sufficient. The Oil Analysis will detect premature wear, a failing engine, coolant leaks from the head gasket, and/or any injector and compression problems. Often the problems can be identified long before they become expensive repairs of catastrophic failures. Blackstone Labs is one mail-in service widely used by many engine owners. Caterpillar Tractor, as well as independent test labs, are in most locales. Your surveyor should be able to find one for you.

• Engine testing during the sea trial should check for three things. First, check that the engine starts readily even when cold. Second, verify that blue, black or white exhaust does not appear while underway. Otherwise, the cause needs to be determined. (Note that steam from the exhaust is benign if the engine is raw-water cooled (e.g., some Volve Pentas), but not otherwise). Finally, motor at whatever 80% of the recommended maximum RPM is for the boat’s engine. Under power, the boat should be able to get within 1 knot of the official hull speed value for its size. Failure to reach that speed indicates that the propeller and engine are not well-matched. (Hull speed is calculated as 1.34 times the square root of the length at the water line, or LWL, for each model. LWL is found in the manual for each boat.)

Summary: What’s particular to Nonsuches that’s important to check

Mast considerations

• Evidence of joint movement

• Condition of boom hangers, eyes, & fittings

• Condition of mast base & fittings to secure

• Condition of topping lift & tackle

Wiring

• How well organized is it (e.g., no direct connections to battery other than bilge pumps)

• Has wire/cable sizing been paid attention to?

• Is there appropriate fusing throughout?

• Are marine grade connectors used?

• Are positive connections protected?

• Verify that mast wiring is at least working and, ideally, has been updated

• Turn all the 12v fixtures on and off to see if they work

If there are leaks, where do they usually appear?

• Check the inside liner for tell-tale water streaks near all hatches, ports and fittings.

• The ports were manufactured by Beckson for earlier models and Atkins & Hoyle for the more recent models. Both companies can be reached for parts and guidance. The major wear point on these hatches is the weather stripping that keeps the water out. Worn seals are evidenced by water stains on the liner.

• Vertical water stains at the top of the head bulkheads may be the result of leaks through the “T” shaped stainless metal retainers that stabilize them. From above on the outside, these appear to be horizontal stainless plates fastened to the deck, but underneath is a vertical piece running through a slot in the deck. That piece is fastened to the bulkhead and covered with a teak piece. It plays a structural role, securing the bulkhead in position.

• Check whether rails and stanchions need rebedding. Many of the pulpits and pushpits were constructed by Stainless Outfitters in Barrie, Ontario and Klacko Marine in St. Catharines, Ontario. They have the dimensions and jigs should replacements be needed.

• The original nylon through hulls should be tested for strength. Heat and UV tend to make them fragile over time.

• Cracks in the rudder face and rust streaks are indicative of water infiltration. Water typically finds its way into the rudder if the seal is compromised where the rudder post enters it. The rudder would have to be lowered to clean out this area and reseal it.

• The fiberglass tube that houses the rudder post is supported by two plywood arms which are in turn fiberglassed to the inside of the hull, directly below the quadrant. Signs of leaking can sometimes be seen if the seal between the fiberglass tube and the hull is compromised. The fiberglass tube extends roughly ¼" beyond the bottom of the hull. That connection point where the tube meets the hull needs to be sealed with a sealant rated for underwater use. There have been some problems reported with the most commonly used sealant, 3M 4000, so check local experts or authoritative boating journals for up-to-date recommendations.

Where to look for boats for sale

Places to check for advertisements

• https://nonsuch.org/marketplace-homepage

• On-line: CraigsList, YachtWorld.com, BoatTrader.com

• Good Old Boat magazine

• Harris & Ellis Yacht Brokers (in the regions they cover: Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie and Lake Ontario and from Georgian Bay to the Thousand Islands) have the longest experience with Nonsuch boats – https://www.harrisellis.com/

• Paul Shield (Allied Yacht Sales) has been recommended for boats in the Pacific Northwest

Geographical areas where they’re clustered.

• As of April, 2022, 98% of the 679 known owners live in the US (62%) or Canada (36%)

• In the U.S., owners are found in 36 of the 50 states, with 50% of the US boat owners in Connecticut, Massachusetts, New York, California, or Michigan (closely followed by Florida, Maryland, Rhode Island, and Washington).

• In Canada, 75% of the owners are in Ontario (62%) or British Columbia (15%), closely followed by Nova Scotia (11%) and Quebec (7%)

Factors if considering offshore sailing

All of the Nonsuch boats were designed for inshore racing and, “coastal cruising for couples.” Several have been taken on offshore and cross-ocean cruises. It is important to understand that doing so requires extra skill and expertise, and that modifications to the stock boat design are important for safety. These include, but are not limited to:

1. Raising the companionway entrance to at or above seat level as opposed to the level of the cockpit floor.

2. Increasing the number and size of cockpit drains.

3. Making changes to facilitate rapidly removing the sail and raising a storm sail.

There are a number of documents with factory recommendations on making these changes, as well as reports from sailors who have done so. The INA strongly recommends that you obtain them from us and consider them closely before deciding to proceed.

General advice on buying any boat of this vintage

Nonsuches are great boats, but should not be expected to be flawless after multiple decades of use. For most, there is little that cannot be fixed. A wise expression about buying boats is, “Remember that you will always either pay now or pay later.” That is, a boat in good condition and a boat in lesser condition will end up costing about the same – it’s merely a question of when needed work is done. So, know what you’re getting into. Don’t regret paying more for one in good shape and don’t be afraid to buy one that needs work.

A survey is recommended for any boat which you are serious about buying, and is often required for insurance purposes. As will be discussed later below, there is a basic set of things to check about any boat. You can save money on surveyors by doing preliminary checks yourself before deciding that you are interested enough to have a survey done. However, unless you regard yourself as extremely experienced and/or willing to accept the consequences of mistakes, it is still best to bring in a surveyor before the sale is final.

Understand, however, that surveyors are generally more concerned with the safety and seaworthiness of the boat rather than its convenience or future costs. You can expect them, for example, to look at an engine and comment on its appearance but not to evaluate future engine maintenance prospects. Similarly, they will not necessarily inspect the sail, rig or canvas.

If you have questions about those, bring in a rigger to go up the mast to check Nonsuch-specific issues listed here. Similarly, if it seems appropriate, ask a mechanic to check the engine. Try all the systems yourself. Do all the lights work, inside and out? Does the water flow from all the spigots and drain through all the drains, does the head flush, and so on. Don’t accept a brief test sail, ask to see the sails raised/lowered/reefed, go through every point of sail, run the engine at different speeds, etc.

If you’re not experienced in buying boats, we strongly recommend buying and reading Don Casey’s excellent book, Inspecting the Aging Sailboat, International Marine, McGraw Hill Press (https://www.mhprofessional.com/9780071445450-usa-inspecting-the-aging-sailboat-group)

Primary topics	Sub-Topics
Hull	Fair and True? – Signs of Stress or Trauma – Delamination – Gelcoat Problems – Blisters – Moisture Content – Keel – Rudder – Cutless Bearings and Propeller – Through-Hull Fittings
Deck	Hull-to-Deck Joint – Surface Damage - Nonskid – Core Problems – Hatches – Portlights – Deck Hardware – Canvas
Rig	Mast and Boom – Step – Sails
Interior	Bulkhead Attachment – Stringers and Floors – Distortion – Signs of Leakage – Tankage – Head – Galley – Seacocks – Bilge Pumps – Comfort and Safety – Decor
Engine and steering	Engine Access – Visual Clues – Mounting and Alignment – Stuffing Box – Exhaust Smoke – Running the Engine – Steering Gear
Electrical System	Battery – Breaker Panel – Wire and Connectors – Alternator
– Pumps and Motors – Lights – Electronics
Other Considerations	Design – Reputation – Performance – Accomodations – Equipment – Value
Boat-Buyers’ 30-Minute Survey	Hull – Deck – Rig – Below – Impression
Appendix: Hiring a Professional

A Good Checklist: Topics Covered in Inspecting the Aging Sailboat by Don Casey

What’s involved in getting one delivered

There are several ways to get a boat to where you want it: sail it yourself, hire someone to sail it, have it trucked, or have it shipped by freighter.

Sail it yourself. This is an excellent way to get to know your boat, and (if time and distance permits) the easiest and cheapest way to go. Primary costs will be supplies for the trip, docking/moorage fees for any stops along the way, and travel costs for you and crew to the departure point. If you are not comfortable with your experience level, consider asking the seller if they will join you for part or all of the trip. You can also post on the INA Google DIscussion Group and/or INA Facebook Group to solicit long-time Nonsuch owners who are willing to join you. There are several who may be happy to oblige. We will not cover trip planning here. If you don’t already know how to plan a trip of the distance involved, we advise not making the trip alone and instead focus on recruiting experienced advice.

Delivery by hired help. The safest way to do this is to get recommendations for an experienced licensed boat captain in your area. Reasonable recommendations can usually be gotten from local boat brokers or shipyards. Licensed captains, as of April 2022, may charge $500-$1000 USD per day, as well as return travel costs, food allowance, and reimbursement of any expenses arising along the way. They are likely to want one or more crew members, at $250-500 USD per day, as well as the same ancillary costs as the delivery skipper.

Trucking. This is a very specialized business. Our long masts and wide beams often require special permits. Giving the transport company sufficient notice to arrange a back haul can reduce costs. Nonsuch 22 and 26 models can be loaded with other boats of similar length and displacement to reduce costs. 30-36 foot vessels may be able to share a load. Planning ahead and flexibility is key.

Andrews Trucking has been hauling Nonsuches since the first build and has an excellent reputation: www.andrewstrucking.com/ . Others can be found by searching for “boat transportation services” on your preferred browser. You may be able to find additional recommendations by contacting local boat brokers in the area near your purchase. Be prepared to pay for the mast and wishbone to be pulled beforehand, with installation and re-rigging at the destination end. A representative list of preparation steps can be found at: Boat Owners' Responsibilities - Andrews Trucking Limited (ATL) experienced sail boat and yacht hauler based in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada

Delivery by freighter. The process of having a yacht shipped by freighter is different from having it trucked or sailed. Your yacht will share a freighter with other cargo or other yachts. In most cases, the pick-up and drop-off port will also be shared with other cargo. To have a commercial freighter dock in a port just for your Nonsuch will be very expensive.

The process is straightforward but far from simple. You will have to find a shipping company that sails the approximate route that your Nonsuch needs to go. U.S. owners should be aware that foreign-flagged transport vessels are limited in access to U.S. ports. Ask them if they have the facilities to transport a yacht such as a cradle or deck stands, a deck crane with slings, etc. Negotiate a price. After that, the hassle begins: getting your Nonsuch to and from the pick-up location exactly on time. There is a window of about 15 minutes and these guys do not wait. Some pointers:

• Transatlantic to/from Europe with SevenStar (Spliethoff) operates dedicated yacht transport freighters to and from Europe several times a year (https://www.sevenstar-yacht-transport.com/). Usually only in springtime, before hurricane season. This company is highly specialized and will arrange everything that is needed for a yacht to be shipped (stands, security, insurance etc). It usually picks up boats in Maine, the USVI’s, Saint Martin (or on that route) to deliver them to the UK, the Netherlands, or the Mediterranean and visa versa. Costs to have a boat shipped transatlantic to Europe is about $12,000 USD for a 36ft boat. Price is negotiable, more boats in one deal can yield a lower price per boat.
• Specialized boat shippers. DYT (www.Yacht-Transport.com) runs a set of purpose-built “float-on/float-off” freighters that use ballast tanks to partially submerge. This allows boats to motor on board in pre-defined order. The freighters then pump out their ballast tanks, grounding the boats onto pre-positioned cradles on deck as they rise.
• Others. As of May 2022, the above are the sources which members have used with positive experience. Additional sources can be found by searching the internet with keywords such as, “yacht transport freighters”. You may also find leads by calling boat brokers who specialize in selling new boats manufactured elsewhere; those boats are often shipped by freighter, so the broker may have leads to the services used to do so.
• Preparing your boat. Whether trucking or shipping, it’s a bouncy ride. Securing loose items on the boat is essential. An excellent list of additional tips for making sure your boat will be ready to transport with minimal risk of damage can be found at How to Prepare Your Yacht for Transport - DYT Yacht Transport

Key things to get from your seller when you take possession of the boat

• For any boat you buy, make sure that ownership is properly documented and transferred, and that the boat is free of liens.
• If you are buying a boat that is owned by a limited company, and you decide to buy the company shares as opposed to a direct purchase of the boat, you may inherit any outstanding liabilities of the company. You should seek legal advice before you make that decision.
• Get Nonsuch Owners Manual and all manuals for systems installed on the boat, ie, engine, refrigeration, hot water systems, bilge pumps, anchor windlass, battery chargers, inverters, navigation instruments such as chart plotters. (Note: absence of this material is a potential red flag; unless there’s a good explanation, it may be a sign that boat maintenance has not been kept up.)
• With new generation VHF radios, be sure that the seller takes action to transfer MMSI to you.
• Find out what kind of bottom paints were used on the hull; what kind of varnish was used on the topside teak; also interior varnishes and cabin sole if those have been modified since original.
• If boat has been upgraded with other than fixed prop, get specifics on size and settings for the blades. The specifications for standard fixed two- and three-blade props are in the boats’ manuals.
• Find out what kind of engine and transmission oils have been used. We recommend oil analysis annually to maintain health watch on your engine.
• Locate the emergency tiller and the pump handle for manual bilge pump and test them for fit.

Other important things to do after taking possession of your boat

• Make sure that you get your copy of the companion pamphlet, “Quick Guide for New Nonsuch Owners,” available to new owners when they join the International Nonsuch Association.
• Join the International Nonsuch Association (by going to https://nonsuch.org/join-us). The useful information available to you doesn’t stop with this pamphlet. Additional information and benefits gained through membership includes:
  • Manuals
  • Sailing guidance
  • Maintenance information and factory bulletins
  • Owners Tips and Projects
  • Original shop drawings
  • Racing information
  • Pointers to affiliated regional groups
  • Historical and current articles about our boats
  • Members services and deals, plus pointers to vendors of Nonsuch-specific products such as regalia, replacement water & waste tanks, and model-building kits
  • A marketplace of boats / items for sale by owner and wanted
  • Regular copies of the International Nonsuch Association Update newsletter
  • Information about owner gatherings both local and international
  • Contacts and camaraderie with other members; over 60% of Nonsuch owners are members of the INA

Nonsuch 36 Hull Lines, Drawing Courtesy of the Designer, Mark Ellis

A Nonsuch 26 Mast, Photo Courtesy of INA Member Robert Neches