The rigging on my topping lift does not seem right as it requires a great deal of force to raise the boom. Would someone please post a picture?
Many thanks.
Randy Gadikian
Paisley Moon
NS 26C #37
Buffalo, New York
Hi Randy -
Before I go even a bit further, many of us have learned (maybe not that quickly) that FRICTION is the enemy of all us Nonsuchers. Assuming that you have a 4:1 block and tackle (or maybe even a 5:1) at the end of your boom, giving you lots of mechanical advantage, i bet that your friction (which is, I am certain, making it hard to raise the boom) is stemming from your T/L line going through all of these padeyes on the boom, through, possibly, a less-than-perfect block at the front of the boom to another, just maybe, LTP block at the base of the boom, through an organizer on deck (that contributes LOTS of friction) and, finally to you.
Every single “junction” where line meets … anything at all, contributes significant friction.
Back to the top - what kind of block and tackle do you have ?? Going on, lots of us skip a few padeyes on the boom AND, to boot, run the line through little blocks instead of padeyes. It takes a fair bit of experimentation. Some of us skip the cheek block on the end of boom, starboard side in favour of an attached block.
Joe Valinoti has, in the recent past, contributed some very clear and good photos of his T/L. I’ll include a few shots of my rig.
On another note, some of us have made it easier to raise our sails by running the main halyard straight back from the block at the base of the mast to the winch, ignoring the organizer (and the ensuing bend in the line). Anyway, hope this helps.
Ernie A. in Toronto
Love your topping lift rig, Ernie!
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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If the foot of your sail becomes tight before the boom is at the desired height, you need to ease the choker to get the boom higher.
FWIW, while Ernie’s goes outside the boom, I removed that turning block and used a soft shackle to direct the line along the inner side of the boom. I can’t tell from Ernie’s picture whether his is 3:1 purchase or more. When I made the change to my boat, I went to 4:1 purchase.
Having multi-part purchase is crucial in making the boom easy to lift. Rducing friction in the path of the topping lift forward along the boom is important. Another consideration, which always arises with multi-part block arrangements, is reducing the risk of the lines through the blocks twisting around each other and creating MAJOR friction as they run across each other.
The reason I chose to remove the cleat and turning block on the outside of the boom, and go to the soft shackle and floating block on the insde, was primarily that the safety line from the topping lift to the boom kept catching on those fittings. That line goes slack when the topping lift’s tightened while raising the sail. Catching on the turning block and cleat then prevented the boom from coming down and thus mucked with sail shape.
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C #143
Joe -
Glad you love my arrangement - I totally stole the idea from you. I even emailed you regarding my questions about it. Do Randy a favour and re-publish your excellent photos of your setup.
Bob-
Your arrangement is is more finessed than mine with your soft-shackled block in precisely the right location (as opposed to mine that is simply tied to the old cheek block).Nice set up.(probably even a bit nicer than Joe’s but I won’t tell him …).
My block arrangement is 4:1. Good point about all of that friction from twisted lines. My fiddle blocks can be locked so that they don’t pivot to prevent the whole she-bang from twisting.
Ernie A. in Toronto
I think your photo is better, Ernie, and your rigging heftier.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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Joe and Ernie,
Does the primary benefit from your new arrangement come from replacing the cheek block with a better block or establishing a better lead for the topping lift to make the turn forward? Or both?
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD
Better angles, less friction and a 4 to 1 purchase.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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I totally agree with Joe. Examine every point of contact that the T/L line encounters and see if it can be done without AND/OR replaced with a block (as opposed to something that has no pulley wheel). Lessening the friction makes a dramatic difference.
My boat is a small N22. With a lousy lower back, if I had an N30, I’d go with a 5:1 purchase, at least. Like, why not ?? Too much extra line ? It’s not a mainsheet and doesn’t get the same amount of “action”.
And (here is an area that I have NO expertise with), some cordage is much easier and smoother to work with and more comfy on the hand. Experts - please weigh in.
Ernie A. in Toronto
I like the set ups that Bob, Joe and Ernie have.
I have a 5:1 purchase for the topping lift tackle and changed all the blocks to Garhauer. I had to play with the cheek block at the clew of the boom to improve the lead. I also fitted three eye bails. The biggest single improvement came when I went down one size on the line. I have locked the blocks to keep the line from twisting. As stated above, friction is your enemy on this.
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.
Mark -
What are “three-eye bails” ?? I haven’t the foggiest notion of what they are.
Thanks,
Ernie A. in Toronto
Ernie,
I am going to the boat tomorrow and will take a picture.
Mine were from Murray Cressman. Mike Quill has them on his site in the Stores section. He calls them reef line guides
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.
Thanks, Mark.
Ernie A. in Toronto
I believe the image Mark’s referring to is this, which I lifted off of Mike Quill’s website at http://www.mqyr.com/the_stores.html , where he bills them as "NS 22, 26, 30 Reef Line Guides":
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C, #143
Thanks, Bob -
Yup, I looked it up. I’d love to see a photo (from anyone, actually) of a boom with one of these doodads installed.
Ernie A,. in Toronto
We have a slight variant of these on our NS30C. The central loop is turned 90 degrees to the two outside ones and is perfect for the sail cradle lines. Not sure if they are original or not and unfortunately don’t know where they came from.
The ones you have are like the ones we purchased from Murray Cressman ~10 years ago. We installed them on the starboard boom and moved the originals from that side to the port side. lIt was a good upgrade, noticeably less friction when using the associated control lines.
David Young
Bay Cat, 30U #402
Suttons Bay, MI
USA
Ernie,
everyone is beating me to it. Here are two photos of the three eye bail purchased from Murray Cressman and installed on the starboard side of the boom.
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.
Here is a photo of the cheek block on the Murray Cressman boom extension that I had to adjust to achieve a fairlead on the topping lift. If you look closely you can see there is a bracket/foot under the block that lifts it away from the boom. I was able to place a large screw driver under the bracket and bend it until the line did not run against the edge of the block.
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.