Hi Guys,
It looks like my raw water pump is bad with water leaking from the seal area. Looking at my parts manual and the pump itself, it looks like I have an old Sherwood #24143, which is now discontinued. So that led me on a merry chase to find the correct replacement. The info I can find seems to say the the pumps have had several changes over the years. Does anyone know the current part number or pump and where to source it?
My engine is the 1984 21a
Thanks,
Rick
26C #125
Puget Sound
Hi Rick.
Here are all the pumps that Westerbeke uses. There doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason which one they use as it seems everyone has a different one installed.
Each of the models shown below has a parts breakdown. Maybe try the individual party numbers as a search.
I rebuilt ours a year ago because of a bad shaft seal. Then went to a local CBS Bearing site with the seal in hand, and they had 6 in stock at $1.40 each.
Jack Dokter
Nine Lives 26C 099 W21
Penetanguishene On
137.pdf (196 KB)
Thanks Jack,
That’s really helpful. I know I can’t get the Sherwood pump and it looks like the other have a different inlet/outlet configuration, so it looks like some elbows and nipples are needed to do the job…
Rick
Rick,
If you can remove the pump from the engine, and dismantle the pump on the bench, then you can decide what course of action you want to go with.
My theory, your not going to break anything that’s already broken. It’s worth a shot before going through the head ache of reconfiguring pipes, elbows and basket full of colourful words.
There are 2 seals. One just under the impeller blade to stop water leaking past the shaft, and another one at the flange mounting plate to keep the engine oil from leaking out. Both are the same seal. Look for a small part number embossed on the non cupped side of the seal.
Mine, for example was DPSM12247, which means 12mm id X 24mm od X 7mm thick.
I found 12246 seals, which means the thickness was only 1 mm less , and that factor makes no difference.
Just make sure the cupped side faces towards the pressure side, or the side you want to not leak.
Jack Dokter
When you put it that way… 
The nearest I can figure out, is the latest pump part number is 48080. It replaces the 37431 which replaced the original 30326. Yes, it can be rebuilt and the seals and bearings are available for a few dollars from almost any auto parts store. The problem is if the shaft is worn, the seals won’t work. It’s not rocket science, but my suggestion is that if you’re not familiar with replacing seals and bearings, take it to a garage or boat yard.
Try the following for good deals on Westerbeke parts.
Trans Atlantic Diesel, Inc.
www.tad123.com
(T) 804-642-9296
(F) 804-642-0340
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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Thanks Joe. As near as I can tell I have a Sherwood H70 pump on my engine. Looking at a parts blowup I found it looks like it’s a fairly easy rebuild. No bearings to press on just a carbon bushing and a couple of seals. I won’t be able to get to it for a couple of weeks but I’ll post what I find when I get it out of the boat.
Hi Guys,
I got my raw water pump off today. It is indeed a Sherwood H70, although the cover says ITT Jabsco. I got it on the bench and tore into it. I got the oil side seal out easily. I couldn’t seem to pry out the seal on the water side, so I thought I would drive out the carbon bushing first. Well, turns out the carbon bushing is really soft, basically pencil lead. It just broke apart and didn’t drive out of the pump at all. Once I got the bushing out the water side seal removal was easy.
I found all the parts to reassemble the pump at at pumpvendor.com.
I don’t know how I’m going to drive in a soft carbon bushing into the pump housing without it shattering. It’s pretty fragile. I’m thinking oil it up and use a clamp or something to slowly push it in. Driving it in with a socket and hammer is for sure not the way to go…
A few pictures are attached. Oh, and my engine is a W21, not a 21A. I don’t know why I said in the title it was 21A because I know it’s not. Anyway…
Good work, Rick. Glad to see you trying to save these old pumps.
What condition is the shaft? Could the shaft easily rotate before you had to break the carbon bushing apart? Maybe a silly question, but did you remove the C-clip?
The carbon bushing is your shaft bearing. Carbon bushings are used extensively in electric motors, and pumps. I suggest to use emery cloth to clean up the bore where the bushing belongs. The bushing should go in the housing with a little resistance, basically thumb pressure. The shaft needs to be clean, polished, free of burrs and gouges, as any of those mentioned conditions could either wear down the bushing quickly, or seize the shaft. The finest emery cloth you can obtain will be beneficial. We use to polish armature shafts with a rouge wheel, but not everyone has one of those hanging around,…so replacing the shaft would be a better option if there are any signs of damage.
You may find the bushing is oil impregnated so adding a little extra light weight oil will be fine. The shaft should easily slide, and rotate, inside the bushing.
Good luck.
Jack Dokter
Nine Lives, 26C W21 099
Penetanguishene, On
Hi Guys,
I got my raw water pump off today. It is indeed a Sherwood H70, although the cover says ITT Jabsco. I got it on the bench and tore into it. I got the oil side seal out easily. I couldn’t seem to pry out the seal on the water side, so I thought I would drive out the carbon bushing first. Well, turns out the carbon bushing is really soft, basically pencil lead. It just broke apart and didn’t drive out of the pump at all. Once I got the bushing out the water side seal removal was easy.
I found all the parts to reassemble the pump at at pumpvendor.com.
I don’t know how I’m going to drive in a soft carbon bushing into the pump housing without it shattering. It’s pretty fragile. I’m thinking oil it up and use a clamp or something to slowly push it in. Driving it in with a socket and hammer is for sure not the way to go…
A few pictures are attached. Oh, and my engine is a W21, not a 21A. I don’t know why I said in the title it was 21A because I know it’s not. Anyway…
Clean the bore with a bronze brush before re-installing bushing. You may try anti-seize, heating the pump body and cooling the bushing. Also, redo both the housing face and the cover by placing emery cloth on a piece of glass or Formica counter and then slide them back and forth. Don’t try and clean those faces any other way!
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~
I got the parts today and have put the pump back together. I used the Nut/Bolt/Washer with a little heat method to press in the Carbon Bushing. The end faces of the bushing chipped a bit but not at all in the area where the shaft rides. The seals tapped in easily. Tomorrow I’ll be installing the pump back into the boat and hope my work worked. I had to remove the starter and the alternator to get at the pump.
Success! I got everything back together, ran the boat for an hour at various RPM’s and no leaks. So, not bad. Total cost 63 bucks and change. Would have saved 40 buck if I would have left the graphite bushing alone.
Good work, Rick.
Thanks for sharing your success and procedures with us.
Jack Dokter
Nine Lives 26C 099 W21
Penetanguishene On
Thanks Jack and Joe for your hints and encouragement on this job. I was leaning towards buying a new pump. Rebuilding this one was the way to go.
