I would like to warn all of you of a critical design defect in the Westerbeke 52 Diesel engine which can lead to a catastrophic failure of the engine. I had that catastrophic failure. The oil filter adaptor in engines built around 1983 and before and probably after have a cast aluminum oil filter adaptor with an integrated aluminum threaded tube onto which you screw the steel threaded oil filter. The aluminum is sufficiently soft that a minor screw up when putting on the oil filter can cross thread the integrated tube allowing all the engine oil to drain from the engine and causing the engine to seize. Later engines had a steel threaded nipple which screwed into the adaptor so you had steel on steel. Obviously Westerbeke felt there was a design defect. So be very careful when you remove and install oil filters. This may apply to other Westerbeke engines.
And, we decided to replace our seized engine with a new Westerbeke replacement engine which is the 55D. It is NOT the same engine and modifications have to be made to get the engine to fit and to hook it up with existing exhaust and other devices. The dealing with Westerbeke has been a nightmare. The boat has been in the boatyard for over five months waiting for the engine, mis-communications because of Westerbeke’s business model and ordering parts from them which were necessary because of the difference in the 52 and 55D. My recommendation if you repower is to look at Yanmar or some other manufacturer. I intend to detail my awful experience in an article for the Update in the near future.
Phil LeVine, MeSays, Nonsuch 36, #3, International Nonsuch Association Secretary.
Phil, so sorry to hear of your troubles. Sadly, while I have seen many posts concerning Westerbeke and their engines, I have yet to see a post extolling the virtues of Westerbeke, their engines, their customer service, etc. Phil.
That is why those who own them call them Westerbreak.
Anytime you cross thread something, you are going to cause damage. Doing this to an oil filter is harder then most due to the thread pitch being large. If it doesn’t turn easily, don’t apply extra pressure. Seems pretty simple to me, but then I owned a garage for 32 years.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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Shame on you, Joe.
I’ve sailed with Phil. Consequently, I know how careful and meticulous he is.
Any system in which special knowledge and care is required to avoid catastrophic failure as a consequence of routine maintenance, is a system that is badly designed and/or badly constructed.
Especially when that system is a diesel engine. This is technology that’s been in use for some hundred or so years. We’re not anywhere near pushing the design envelope here.
Seems pretty simple to me, but then I was an engineer for 32 years (including two years as the Director of Advanced Engineering Initiatives in the US Office of the Secretary of Defense).
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C, #143
I stand by what I said. If it doesn’t screw on or in easily, don’t force it! I used to hire kids from the local high school and they were taught right up front, if you break a stud or bolt or cross thread something, you fix it on your time. They learned fast!
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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You must not have read Phil’s post very closely, Joe.
He pointed out that the design consisted of, “an integrated aluminum threaded tube onto which you screw the steel threaded oil filter.”
It doesn’t take extra pressure or force to cross-thread metals that mismatched.
Phil’s trying to do us all a favor by warning about problems and risks of a problem that requires could affect a number of owners.
Any observation other than that, “This is a situation requiring extra care and caution,” is an unnecessary distraction from that point.
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C, #143
We can understand Phil’s point but the responsibility still falls on us.
When screwing on anything from spark plugs, bolts or oil filters, we make several turns with little more than finger pressure before applying any force. If it’s an oil filter, we all watch the filter when the engine starts for a leak caused by anything from over-tightening to a failed filter. Many of us know those who didn’t take care or check for leaks, and the results.
Phil’s right, it could be designed better. But even with the proper metals we should take responsibility and care to prevent a catastrophe.
One last note, and with all due respect, perhaps “Shame on you” is considered inappropriate language from one Nonsucher to another.
Jim Falcon
Ballybay NS30U #327
Warren, RI
Well said Jim.
Considering the W52 lasted almost 40 years during which many filters have been replaced without problems, any components could have caused a catastrophic failure. Depending on the alloy used, it may or may not be a design defect. Changing metal could be for cost considerations only. We don’t know.
My W13 also from 1982/83 lost oil through a corroded oil pan, but checking the oil level as part of my normal pre-sail checks as well as keeping an eye on oil pressure during motoring, the only problem I had was a major bilge cleaning effort. Then I switch to electric propulsion 7 years ago.
Joe, please continue providing us with your sage counsel, which is much appreciated.
Jorgen Moller
Pondus NS26 #33
RCYC, Toronto
I’ve been going through the old threads about the gaskets on the A-K hatches on the 30s. I’m still not sure what size the gasket is on those units. Is it 3/8ths’'”(9.525MM)?? It appears that the EPDM material is available on Amazon.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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Westerbeke buys these blocks from suppliers like Mitsubishi or Perkins who sell 1,000 every year and some of these blocks have been on the market since the 50’s. It is not unusual for there to be changes in the block design along the way. These designs were made with tractors in mind where the entire hood come away for access. The features that a boat may find idea would be less attractive to the tractor applications that comprise the vast majority of these engines.
As well the vast majority of us are not the original owners so what maintenance went before is largely a mystery.
Phil has had issues with his repower and that is unfortunate given the fact that is not something we are likely to do more than once and involved large bills, not small bills.
However, on the other side of the continent, I have had my W21 for 15 years and she runs like a watch. Burns no oil and starts like a Honda. The two dealers I have dealt with Torrrensen Marine, and Anthoney Keats have provided good service. Not cheap mind you.
For me to change my oil filter is a PITA. It is out of sight and attached to me on the side. Lining it up is fussy. Much like the accuracy of a pistol the short length means the alignment can be easily off and more than half the time I need to take several attempts before it spins on smoothly. Stripping the treads of the filter would be easy as the stud is steel and the filter thread is in a stamped plate. I suspect that stripping the treads is a common risk regardless of the stud material. It is a fussy job. Like a spark plug, it needs to be spun on gently.
Broken studs show either haste or bad luck. When removing fasteners the temptation to lean on it is too tempting. And when attaching parts a torque wrench is your friend. I found that using 1/4 socket wrenches vs 3/8 reduces the risk of stripped bolts and broken studs. Holding the ratchet close to the head vs on the end is a trick I was shown that works.
Right now I am dealing with a snapped screw in the aluminum windshield frame of my MG. Not only is the screw snapped, but the extractor is also. Sometimes no matter how hard you try Murphy is by your side, he never takes a coffee break. Only the Brits would use mild steel screws in aluminum. But most of us are weekend warriors, we are rarely as skilled as we think.