For some reason my NS30U #303 has never been equipped with an automatic bilge pump. All these years, and the boat has been in the family since being built, the manual pump was it. This past week the bilge overflowed (I’m thinking the forward water tank failed) so I was faced with a small mess but am now again considering an automatic pump. Any thoughts or recommendations on pump selection and installation would be appreciated before make this more than overdue upgrade.
Thanks
Joel
Not ready to go out on a limb and recommend a particular make/model, but some general thoughts:
The newer water-sensing switches are less failure-prone than the older float switches, especially from sticking closed or jamming open with debris.
Well worth connecting to a switch near the electrical panel or that has Auto, off, and manual on settings.
You can never have too much pump capacity, within the limits of your budget.
Rated capacity is significantly reduced by friction, height water must be raised, length of hose run, etc.
Smooth hose, although more expensive than corrugated, significantly reduces friction. Check valves add friction but the added security may be worth it.
Do make sure a portion of the hose run is always above the water line to prevent flooding or back-siphoning if the hose gets disconnected at the bilge end. Exit above the waterline at the discharge end for same reasons.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
In regards to your post, Bob, I’ve found over the years, after trying the non mechanical switches, that I’ve had best luck with the old fashioned float switch which is easy to troubleshoot. The problem with check valves is that come winter, that water is usually sitting behind the valve and getting ready to freeze so I removed mine. Otherwise, I agree with you.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Joel, Let me add a couple of small details,
I like the solid state sensors. It is easy to mount it slightly higher than the pump to avoid cycling. In a Nonsuch the discharge hose is often routed from the pump aft to exit the transom or high on the hull. This can be a lengthy run of hose and a significant volume of water backfilling the bilge when the pump cuts out. I currently have a pump with a built in sensor, it works ok too.
I try to avoid a check valve, this from the ABYC,
22.8.9 A check valve may be used only when necessary to prevent an automatic bilge pump from cycling on and off due to back flow from the discharge line.
Dennis
N26U 247 Chumu
Smugglers Cove Boat Club,
Niagara ON
Joel,
One strategy is to add two pumps. The first is a cheap low capacity pump which is lowest in the bilge. The second pump is a higher capacity better quality pump which is mounted a few inches higher in the bilge (than the first pump). Both pumps have separate outflow hoses to the stern.
This arrangement provides redundancy and also means that the high capacity pump is rarely used, and is therefore saved for when the small pump cannot handle the flow (or breaks). When the low capacity pump wears out, it is cheap to replace.
Cons are of course more wiring and more hoses.
Mike
NS30C #26
Port Moody BC
After some research I am replacing mine with a Water Witch 217 and a Shurflo 2000 Bilge Pump . There was an presentation at the NWNA Rendezvous about a bilge switch that was leaking current causing a major keel redo to refurbish the keel bolts. So checking for stray current in the bilge pump system is a good idea.
Mark Powers might have the presentation to post…???
Another great reason to go to your local Nonsuch Rendezvous!
Joel: Check out what Practical Sailor has to say about pump and how to install them.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA