Whops, I double checked and I actually used 1/0, and installed two heavy duty terminal studs in the cabinet so if I ever wanted to install a bow thruster I could use that same “arterial” 1/0 line (with a separate thermal fuse for the thruster of course). If you don’t plan for any additional use of that cable you could use higher gauge. I run everything from my house batteries .
My batteries are also aft of the engine, and I previously had Firefly batteries, but I just replaced them with Victron LiFePo, 660 AH. 2x330 AH. Those batteries just got a “decent” discount and I felt like splurging a bit.
I am thankfully nimble enough to squeeze myself in behind the mast, which certainly made the install easier. But I still wanted to install the deck plate since I do find the access to the up/down switch and anchor snubber handy. And I eventually want to be able to sell the boat to someone who may not be as nimble as me
That was actually made by a company called PlasTeak, I mailed them the windlass template and they made the plinth. You could reach out to them, as they probably still have the designs and could make you one. It cost about ~$50 a few years ago.
The plinth I had made is 1.5" thick and has 3/4" around the windlass. 2" would have been better for the anchor rode but it’s coming desperately close to needing the EDV unit. If you go with EDV you might be better offer and have more flexibility. You can see in my photos how much clearance I had below deck.
Happy to answer any other questions too. Good luck! Feel free to mail directly if you want to speak on the phone I can provide you my number.
I spoke with Mark Ellis again, as I had reached out to him again, this time about making a larger opening than the 6" diameter access port that would then have a Beckson plate installed to help maintain the stability of the opening.
I realized while visualizing the installation that the 6" hole would not allow for me to hold the 15-20lb gearbox/motor assembly with 1 hand and get another hand in there to tighten the large locknut/ring that secures the motor/gearbox to the underside of the unit.
My question to Mark was can I safely make a larger opening, perhaps 6" wide and 9" high - a door/panel, so I can see and get both hands/arms through at the same time…
Mark responded “The bulkhead is certainly a structural component that is under compression the where the loads from the mast are creating a torquing moment against the righting moment of the hull and ballast.” He also suggested that “the corners of any cutout should be large radius-es to avoid stress risers”. In other words, don’t make it a square/rectangle with sharp corners… All the corners should be rounded! An oval would be okay (I now understand why the openings ahead of and to the port/starboard of the are oval in shape!).
So, Mark seemed fine with the smaller 6" port as noted previously, but did caution that due to potential liability issues (I fully understand this, especially as he wouldn’t be doing/overseeing the work and doesn’t know the condition of the boat) he couldn’t say what size opening would begin to present an issue.
So, with all of that, I am now about to begin some stretching/flexibility exercises, perhaps take some Tai-Chi classes, so when it is time to install the windlass in the Spring, I can comfortably squeeze past the mast! I will also keep an eye open for some smaller/thinner individuals whom I may know who may have rudimentary mechanical skills, or can at least follow simple directions!
Oh, and I contacted Plas Teak - fast response to my inquiry, said they can and will do a custom made plinth to my specifications, and the projected cost and turn-around time was very good. Thanks again to Matt Hidinger for that lead!
Best regards,
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKE WALK III
1987 30U 430
I wouldn’t be surprised if PlasTeak has custom fabbed a bunch of stuff for Nonsuches over the years, so it might pay anyone planning to do something with them to ask if they’ve done it before.
hmm the issues as I seen them regarding using “buddy boats” to haul a mast are.
The mast, absent friction and inertia weighs north of 600Lbs so the lines , shackles, blocks and sheaves need to have a SWF in the range of 3000 lbs
The sheaves at the top of the mast will be not be aligned with the load, increasing the friction and potential chafe.
I suspect this set up would be considered a “live load” as neither buddy boats are fixed to the ground. And that in most places is a big workplace violation. I am sure your insurer will have words regarding this type of thing.
There are many yacht clubs that have their own “gin pole” and removing a mast is not hard or complicated, but you need someone trained to do it properly.
We pulled our via a gin pole for years, on on the pole crank, two on deck, on below . 20 minutes start to finish.
On Tuesday, December 19, 2023 at 9:14:26 AM UTC-8 Julie & Lloyd on Rendezvous wrote:
