Would there be sufficient interest in replacing canvas dodgers with solid ones (aka dog houses)? The Nonsuch is a cruising boat where few of us collapse our dodgers so it might be time to consider a solid structure that is durable. I imagine that one would need a production run of 10+ to make it worthwhile. I raced in the 2014 Rendezvous with the dodger and Bimini up. They did not seem to affect Mascouche’s performance.
Cheers,
John Newell
Mascouche 26C 1
Toronto
John, put me on the somewhat interested list.
Joe
NS 26C
#156
Sassafras River, Maryland
I’m in the process of building my own semi-rigid dodger, experimenting with PVC foam board (see https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/diy-projects/is-azek-the-new-starboard for an article about it). 1/8th inch board is not as flexible as canvas, but flexible enough, and should last a lot longer.
It’s slow going because, honestly, it’s a project above my skill level. I keep learning and redoing as I go.
So, given that I was already heading that direction on my own, put me down with Joe as potentially interested as well. I’d definitely prefer one done right to one done by me – if the price was right and the design aesthetics worked for me.
There are several Nonsuches with hard dodgers already, the nicest looking ones of which I’m aware having been made by Tartarooga (https://tartarooga.com/). Their gallery includes a hardtop with canvas sides on a Nonsuch, Mariner’s Cat II of Vancouver, which you can see by going to https://tartarooga.com/gallery/ and scrolling down. It’s the second one down in the lefthand column.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
Mariner’s Cat hard dodger looks great.
I can sew the front and side panels.
It would need to be end user installable.
Joe
N26C
#156
Personally, I’d like hard sides with real acrylic windows. I’m tired of “scratches if you give it a mean look, yellows faster than you can blink” isinglass.
End user installable is one of my criteria, too. I’d assume if we could work out a bulk order it’d have to be something that could be broken down, shipped, and installed locally. That means end user installation stands a chance of being feasible.
So, John, you’ve definitely gotten my attention.
The challenge, beyond collecting sufficient numbers for a group purchase, would be to converge on a design that everyone’s happy with.
One of the things I discovered in my progress so far on a homemade dodger was that the frame my boat came with needed to be moved four inches forward to work for me. It may’ve been great for previous owners as it was. For me, making that change both reduced head knocking on leaving the cabin and gave me room to do a full-circle rotation with a ten-inch handle on my halyard winch.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e 26U #233
My soft dodger is at the point of needing replacement canvas and isinglass. I like the idea of a hard dodger with removable canvass/plexiglass front and side panels and may consider going in that direction.
I wonder if the design might be such that it would be adaptable to a 30U and 30C as well as a 26U and 26C. That would enlarge the field of prospects.
One question I have is if the roof would need to be collapsed to allow the wishboom to be dropped to the deck for winter storage.
Brian Cayer
Spirit~Wind. N30U 419
Deep River, CT
Not really on topic but I’m in the process of building a hard doghouse for Sandpiper. I’m hoping to get the parts down to the boat tomorrow for final glue up. After that it will be down to cosmetic finishing. Mine might be heavier than some like as it is made of 1/2” plywood /epoxy with removable acrylic windows. It will weigh around 100-120 lbs but it will be bulletproof.
The pics are from a week ago, last time it was on the boat.
Paul M
NS30U #221, Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay, B.C.
Looking good, Paul. As usual …
Ernie A. in Toronto
I would be interested, not in buying a production unit, but I’m interested in your ideas for what it should look like.
I’ve started to build a top to be completed as a semi ridged dodger. The option to make a solid “windscreen” (by that I mean: front) is still open. The same goes for side panels. My understanding is that modern clear window foil has come a long way. Strataglass should be much more transparent and durable than what we’re used to.
To give you an idea of what I’ve been up to so far, here are some pictures. You’re looking at the making of the mold. The end product will be made of GRP with a foam core. No ply. I’m making the mold durable, so I can pull at least 10 tops out of it.
mark H
Cotton Eye Joe N36#25
Netherlands, Europe
Mark -
What a craftsman you are !! I’ll bet you built that shop, too. This is gonna be nice.
Ernie A. in Toronto
There is a fellow out here that makes or made a hard top that you’d use canvas with on the sides. A nice idea and he has an adjustable mould apparently. But a difficult guy to deal with, not very good at returning calls.
But once you have a mould the rest is not too hard. There is some good material now to make it. The easiest I suspect would be something like this:
John, I would be interested in finding out more about this. I am looking at having to replace my canvas soon and have already contemplated about having a hard dodger.
Jim L
Capers 26C #69
Midland, Ontario
Thor, i’ve watched the video. Nice. He does not make a mold but a shape of the actual product and then covers it with fiberglass (or carbon).
After he’s done "dressing’ his shape, he sands the side that is normally IN a mold and then finishes his product. When all done, he digs out his polystyreen shape. For a second product he has to remake the polystyreen shape..
My plan was to reuse the mold for any neighbour boat with roughly the same size cockpit as mine. The difficult part of the process is not building a mold but creating a shape that is functional and looks great.
An adjustable mold would be ideal but unfortunately I don’t think that is possible. I suspect that the fellow making the hard tops has more than one mold to supply tops for boats from small to large. I guess it takes 3 or 4 molds to cover most cockpit sizes and a couple more to make rigid biminis.
mark h
n36#25
netherlands
Here’s an interesting summary on making “plugs” or moulds. I wonder if you could not make a mould for say a dodger, split it into 4 sections and use foam inserts to scale it up?
On a neighbor’s C&C 36, he has a home made hard dodger from fiberglass attached to aluminum tubing, and canvas with vinyl glass(?). The fiberglass looks to be about 1/8" or 3/16" thickness. It usually looks pretty good, except in the dreary winter weather. See photos attached.
Don
It looks like he took a sheet of polyester (-like) material and bend it over a frame that used to hold canvas. The shape is OK, it resembles a soft dodger. A big difference with a known commericial hardtop is in the curving of the edges. If he’d shaped a curve to the front of his roof to hide his tubing and keder rail, it would’ve given a more professional look to it, I think.
That said, it is difficult to “commercialize” this style of hardtop because of the the frame, unless you supply a complete frame with it. So it might be a better idea to build a top that doesn’t need a frame.
I’m aiming for a frame construction like the first picture (without the roll bar…) but I want it shaped like the second picture. And it will have a curve at the front edge because that is what I like about the “known commercial” unit.
mark h
n36#25
netherlands
Hi Mark, I am very curious as to your progress on your semi rigid dodger as I also own a 36 (#41), please update us on your progress as you continue. Looks great so far by the way. My current dodger has a semi rigid polycarbonite or acrylic (not sure which) lens sewn into a fabric zip in frame for the dodger. This has held up very well for me 10+ years now with very little visual degradation. I have also seen a center window in the semi rigid material which slides up to open and stores on the bottom side of the dodger eliminating the chance of scratching it while stored, very convenient. Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing more.
Steve Currier
N36 #41 Caper
Thames Yacht Club
New London, Ct.
The day before yesterday, I gave the mold a final sand and applied polyvinylalcohol. This stuff helps getting the product out the mold when done. Then yesterday, I laminated the outside of the roof. It’s still in its mold because tomorrow I start working on the interior. That means that I have to fabricate the ribs and places where the stands can go. I will also propare for solar, so ducting where electric wires can go must be installed. Not to mention a suitable strip surface where the keper rail is going to be mounted. So much to think about…
mark h
n36#25
netherlands
To change the subject a bit, I am nearing the completion of a rigid Bimini and can comment on a one-off construction method. Years ago, I built a canoe using a cedar frame with f/g laminated inside and out. Could also be used for a dodger. Thought I would have a go with his project. The secret is the use of bead and cove cedar strip which. Is 1/4” thick and about 3/4” wide. You can make your own with a table saw and appropriate router bits or buy it. I got it from Noah’s Marine in Mississauga, ON.
I built the Bimini over my existing stainless frame. If anyone is interested I can make some suggestions about how to make a good job (I would do a second one faster than the first but no one could afford what I charge.) It really is not a high-skill task, but there is quite a bit of work getting the fairing as perfect as you would want
Bruce -
I have a feeling that a cedar strip bimini would look absolutely gorgeous. A good and unique idea.
Pictures, maybe ??
Ernie A. in Toronto
