The exhaust elbow P/N 033067) where the cooling water and exhaust mix rusted through on my 1986 Westerbeke 27. I loosened and removed the mixing elbow, but I also want to replace the other pipes connected to the cooling manifold, as they are rusted too.
I’ve soaked the pipe treads (see the purple arrow in the picture) for 3 days in Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and WD-40, but I can’t break the pipe free with a pipe wrench.
If anyone else has had success with removing the exhaust pipes, please let me know how you did it & what tools you used.
Is there any damage I could do to the cooling manifold by heating the pipe with a propane flame to help loosen the pipe?
I replaced mine recently. To be safe the best is to remove the manifold and then work on the elbow removal. Exhaust systems rust tight. On mine I cut the elbow off short and then cut a piece out of the remaining nipple with a hack saw blade trying to minimize thread damage. Once the cuts are made it may unthread or you may actually have to knock the cut segment out. Sealant will fill any thread nicks in the manifold flange but try to avoid them if possible.
When I reassembled mine I added a piece of flex. It reduced both noise and vibration.
I really like the idea of removing the manifold, as that will make removing the rusted pipes a bit easier and make it easier to replace any worn gaskets. The flex tubing is a good idea to eliminate vibration. What material are the new pipes? Black iron or stainless or something else?
Are the Westerbeke schematic diagrams clear on what the attachment points are on the manifold to remove it from the block?
I used black iron pipe Sch 40. You could use Sch 80 but I don’t think the increased life justifies the extra weight on the manifold flange. With a good coating of never seize it should be easier to replace next time.
Paul: Is there some reason you cannot remove that end plate where the pipes thread onto instead of the whole manifold??
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
In my case I tried and the first stud broke (very easily). That made the decision for me but if I had it to do again I might just take the manifold off again. It’s not that hard once you give yourself some access and it should likely be examined on about the interval of the pipe life anyway.
The old pipe had to be cut short and then cut down to the threads like Paul/Sandpiper did. It and the plug on the other end were thoroughly stuck. You don’t want to damage the aluminum manifold.
Old studs eventually all came out but they were also very rusted.
If you are going to do the pipe, might as well do all the gaskets at the same time. I’m very happy I did it last winter, not a drop of antifreeze leaked this summer.
This will be much easier with the manifold out of the boat but that’s another story.
Right Tom, I forgot that about the plate but I agree that it is a good thing to have done and know it is sound. No leaks here either and the noise level is down from the flex addition.
Seeing the inside of the manifold is really interesting.
My plan is to remove the manifold from the engine and then get the rusted pipes removed. Replacing the manifold gaskets will also clean up a slow leak I had.
I’m sure glad I found this off-season rather than having the exhaust elbow burst miles off-shore next summer!
This discussion was really helpful. Thanks to all!
Paul: When I had my garage and we couldn’t obtain the right gasket, we took gasket material, placed it over the part and using the round end of a ballpeen hammer tapped the gasket material on the edge an “voila”!
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
When I converted BIANKA to Electric Propulsion in 2008 I had to remove the old Westerbeke. I ended up doing it myself. It was suggested to me to remove the manifold to make it easier to remove the engine into the main cabin which I did. You might find a few tips from my blog post on the procedure here: Removing a Westerbeke diesel engine
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Removing a Westerbeke diesel engine
Before beginning to remove the engine I will need to make room. The table needs to be removed and all the cushio…
I’ve read many of your blog posts, and your article about removing the diesel engine will be very helpful. I was wondering how to remove the exhaust manifold, and you article answered it.
I’ve also read with great interest your blog on going electric https://biankablog.blogspot.com/search/label/going%20electric. If my Westerbeke 27 continues to be a time and money hog, I’ll likely go electric as you’ve done. I recently purchased a Tesla electric car (Model 3), and I’m never going back to internal combustion for cars, so I might as well consider it for boats too. I know going electric isn’t for everyone, but I think it will fit my needs just fine.
It is a casting and as I remember steel. I don’t see any advantage to SS for the exhaust pipe. I used black pipe for thousands of hours in our harbour ferries and don’t ever remember burning one out.
Glad you found the Blog post helpful. The exhaust manifold came off easily once I removed the heat exchanger to make access to it easier. The 1/4" rachet set was pretty much all I needed. Hope your diesel keeps working well but, when it dies electric is an option with more choices these days. I’m certainly glad I made the conversion.
I’ve read many of your blog posts, and your article about removing the diesel engine will be very helpful. I was wondering how to remove the exhaust manifold, and you article answered it.
I’ve also read with great interest your blog on going electric https://biankablog.blogspot.com/search/label/going%20electric. If my Westerbeke 27 continues to be a time and money hog, I’ll likely go electric as you’ve done. I recently purchased a Tesla electric car (Model 3), and I’m never going back to internal combustion for cars, so I might as well consider it for boats too. I know going electric isn’t for everyone, but I think it will fit my needs just fine.
After cleaning the manifold up. I like the polished aluminum look, and may keep it like this instead of red..
Order new gaskets and several hoses that were original from 1986.
