Question: The vertical riser (about 10" fabricated from pipe) from the flange on the exhaust manifold to the injector elbow on my N22 Westerbeke w10-2 corroded through at the exhaust elbow spewing exhaust water. I shut the engine down immediately but did hear what sounded like metal to metal screeching and intermittent clinging sound before I realized there was a problem. I removed the flange from the manifold and some sea water (tasted it - YUK) drained. Is it possible that the open connection at the injector elbow would have allowed seawater to back flow into the cylinders through the exhaust manifold?
Ron: I think you can safely crank the engine with the engine stop in the stop position and listen for noises. If none are heard, it won’t hurt it to start and run it to listen again but maybe just 30 seconds.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Joe,
Quick update: she cranks over just fine. As soon as I can complete the repair on the exhaust, I will try starting her. Optimistic!! After this experience I would recommend that anyone with a fabricated (mine was original) exhaust made of galvanized pipe should replace it if it hasn’t already been done. At least carry a spare already assembled and ready to install. If I had been somewhere remote it would have been a big problem.
If you’re replacing these parts anyway adding a section of flex will reduce the stress on the manifold connection and drop the noise level as well.
Paul M
NS30U #211
Cowichan Bay, B.C.
Also – IMHO, the red-painted Westerbeke cooling injection elbow in the left hand of Paul’s picture is way overpriced.
For much less, you can buy a plain old off-the-shelf elbow, take it to any good local machine/metal shop, and have them cut a hole and weld in a small pipe to which the cooling water hose can attach. If you do so, I’ve been told that it’s best that the water be added parallel to the exhaust flow so that you’re not blowing heated sea water continuously on the same spot on the exhaust pipe wall.
My $0.02, unless Paul or someone else comes back and points out a reason to stick with the original. Adding a flex section is brilliant and I bow to superior knowledge.
I got a stainless elbow for my Volvo Penta MD2040 from HDI in Vancouver, WA for about half of what Volvo wanted for a cast iron one. And, probably more important than the price, they were very friendly and helpful.
They don’t list Westerbeke. But they told me that they are always trying to accumulate new patterns. They said ff they didn’t have the right one I could send them my old one and they would make a pattern from it and a new part.
I actually learned about these from the mechanic who did my engine survey/inspection last February. He said there are other stainless elbows out there, but HTI are the best quality. Mine certainly looks like good quality.
You’re right Bob, I would never buy a mixing elbow from Westerbeke. I’ve made several in the past from schedule 80 pipe fittings like the ones in my pic. Sched 80 cast iron is cheap (by comparison) and lasts a looooong time.
