Can anyone post a clear sketch of the topping lift rigging from starboard cabin top to wishboom thru tackle block and to the boom itself?
The one in the manual is unclear.
My son and I will be reassembling my rigging on Saturday and hanging the wishboom and sail and I can’t find a clear picture of the topping lift line.
I have a sketch of the chocker rigging I saved from this group from awhile ago.
Brian Cayer
Spirit~Wind
N30U 419
Deep River, Ct.
Sorry that the line is twisted but you should be able to get the idea. Block with the becket at the wishbone, line goes up and back
twice and then forward to the turning block, down to the mast base and back to the cockpit. That’s how my boat came rigged anyway.
Bill Mortensen
NS30U Summer Song
Nona, CT
.
Thanks Bill
They say a picture is worth a thousand words.
That saves a lot of reading.
Brian
There are other ways, Brian -
On my NS22, I had 2 fiddle blocks for my topping lift. The ABSOLUTELY most crucial thing about these T/Ls is to avoid as much friction as possible - friction from twisted line is a real groaner and it just gets worse unless the line is carefully setup right at the beginning. You can see the twist in Bill’s line (and that’s no fun to deal with. It’s avoidable.) Also, my T/L was not led through that less-than perfect teeny little cheek block on the boom but actually went through a floating block (tied with Dyneema to the inside aft end of the boom) and then, through 2 little blocks on the starboard side to a double block at the front of the boom (that also carried a clew reef line in the other sheave). NO old boom pad eyes - no rubbing - no excess friction.
When you set the whole thing up and run the line through the 2 blocks, lay the entire line out on the dock in a straight line. Gently, rotate areas of the line where there are kinks or tension in the line i.e. get the line floppy and dead straight - nice and relaxed with no kinks. Tie the line to the becket and keep the 2 blocks far apart. This best done with the aid of a 1st mate. Carefully run the line all through the 2 blocks, back and forth, and attach the blocks to the boom and the T/Lsteel cable. DON’T pull the line taught - you’ll kink it - just deal with this huge long “snake” that will all work itself out when you begin to lift the T/L.
I’ve added a few photos and will email you a drawing to clarify this ASAP. The cradle lines shot does show the floating block.
Joe Valinotti has a good photo of the end of his boom with the floatin block (I think).
A demain,
Ernie A. in Toronto
Thanks Ernie
Brian
There’s a good section on this in the New Nonsuch Owners Quick Guide. Go to www.Nonsuch.org, click on the MEMBERS tab, select MANUALS, and it shows up pretty early in the list.
The easiest way to avoid twist is to use fiddle blocks with upper and lower sheaves rather than double blocks with side-by-side sheaves. If you fasten one to the boom end as shown in Bill’s picture, you’ll want one fiddle block with shackle and one fiddle block with shackle and becket. If you do a floating block as Ernie recommends, you’ll want two fiddle blocks with shackle and becket.
Many owners who have rigged this have gone to Garhauer Marine for the fiddle blocks. For a N30, you’ll want either their 30-series or 40-series blocks, depending on how hard usage you expect to give it. https://www.garhauermarine.com/product-category/blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/fiddle-blocks-blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
Looking forward to seeing folks in Toronto:
https://nonsuch.org/2024-INA-International-Rendezvous-Status
If you use the Garhauer fiddle blocks locking them so they can’t turn will reduce twisting in the line.
Mark Powers
Bob Neches,
Thanks for the heads up on the quick start guide. That’s much more clear than the manual.
Brian
Sprit~Wind
N30U 419
Deep River, Ct
