Hi Fred, Thank you for your reply. It’ll bring me closer to the right decision.
On my Nonsuch I had to repair core, gone bad because of leakage of the old rub rail. Something I’m trying to avoid from happening in the future. So the plan is to glue the new rub rail without using any hull puncturing hardware.
Did you install white PVC or did you choose a wood-like profile? There are several manufacturers of fake teak decks who also provide rub rail profiles. Flexiteek for instance is one of them. They are active in the US as well as the EU.
Anyway, thanks again for the info. It’ll help me choose something close to the original profile.
Mark
N36 #25
NLD
Mark,
The way I see it you have a few options.
1 - leave the rub rails off. About 50% of the 36s do not have the rub rails installed. It save money, no holes in the hull sides, they aren’t there to get ripped off on the edge of a dock and no varnishing versus wooden rub rails. Almost certainly faster without because of the streamline hull sides.
2 - install them with glue only. Wood should stick well with glue, some plastics won’t. If they do get caught on the edge of a dock they will likely cause less damage if they are pulled off.
3 - install them as they were originally done and risk future core rot.
4 - install them with bolts and glue but first drill over sized holes for the bolts and fill the holes with thickened epoxy. Then drill the correct sized hole through the epoxy. This should protect the core from water intrusion.
La Reina does not have rub rails so I will not suggest which option (go with option one 
) due to potential bias.
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C sailing with bare necked hull sides for 38 years
Vancouver, B.C.
Sprio, I also own a 36, and I have replaced the rub rail as well. The original wood rails were starting to dry rot from water weeping into the screw holes from the stainless rub strake. I replaced them with rub rails from Hamilton Marine in Maine, I believe I used profile #366R (see website) dimensions are 1 1/2" ht. X 1 11/16" projection which was very close to the original. They are a plastic (maybe PVC?) and when I painted my hull the alwgrip sort of melts into the surface and bonds very well. I through bolted mine with plenty of caulking and a backing plate. Hamilton offers bung material in rods to match, I inserted the bungs again with caulk. I then replaced the stainless strake to cover the bungs. This was completed in 2015 and has held up very, very well, I recommend it. They do an excellent job of protecting my topsides from scratches and gouges. I also re cored my bow deck and side decks, glassed and re did my gel coat and anti skid, I used Kiwigrip and it looks like factory and preforms well. Good luck with your project!
Steve Currier
Nonsuch 36 #41
Caper
Thames Yacht Club
New London, Ct.
Steve,
I'm looking at doing this on my C26. My bolts are 8" apart.
Removal of the old doesn't look like too much of a hassle aside from
removing interior trim, and for me working around the electrics on the
stbd. side by the head. I'm told it was only caulker at the bolts and not
adhered elsewhere.
Did you do the job? If so, how did you go about drilling and counterboring
the holes? I anticipate doing it on a drill press to keep the holes from
wandering. My rail would be about 21' in length.
Did you keep the replacement in one piece, or did you cut and scarf joints
to make it more manageable.
My yard really has no idea how to do it and I don't want it to become a
money pit that makes them smile.
The 26 is solid glass, so I don't have the core issues to deal with.
Joe
SEA HORSE
Sassafras River, MD
Hi Joe, Yes I did it myself or more accurately with the help of 3 friends, (would need at least 2). I did it in 1 piece so no scarfing was necessary. The profile was a very close match to the original so I was able to use the line created by the original as a guide. With 1 person outside at the drill hole lining things up, 1 person inside with the drill, and the other 2 spaced out down the run to line up the unattached rail along the the hull and sight back to assure a fair line, worked out well. 8" sounds about right and yes I caulked only at the drilled hole, but liberally, I think I used Life Caulk so the squeeze out cleaned up easily. After the hole from the inside was drilled we counter sunk the outside to accommodate the caulked washer and nut, I believe using a 1/2" bit which matched the bung material that was inserted flush after the rail was installed. Finally we re installed the stainless rub strake which covered any inconsistencies in the drill angles. It was intimidating to start, but quickly became apparent that it would be fine and went fairly quickly once we had the system down. I profiled the front and rear edges with a bevel but not to a knife edge similar to the original and filled behind it with a bit with fairing compound as you have nothing holding it tight to the hull there, it also helps to do on a hot day or warm the rub rail as it is quite stiff, I laid it out flat in the sun for a day prior to help. I set up scaffolding along the hull which sped things up on the exterior. Yes, as I recall, my hull was solid glass at the rub rail as well. This is a doable job by a semi handy amateur and friends. Good luck with it.
Steve Currier
'86 Nonsuch 36 #41
Caper
Thames Yacht Club
New London, Ct.
Thanks for the reply, did you do them sequentially from bow to stern, or did you jump about every two feet get it fastened and then go back to fill in? How did you ensure that you were drilling straight?
Joe
C26
Joe, From bow to stern, and drilled by eye.