Hi All-
Need to update the refrigerator system onboard as it is no longer working.
Recently received a quote of 1,875 for BDXP Air-Cooled system and 625 for labor costs. What questions should I ask and what systems have you all installed and like best?
Wanted to get an idea what is a reasonable installation fee for the NE and which are the best systems?
Thanks,
Eautha
30C-Naiad
Stamford, CT
I recently replaced the refrigerator system on my boat with a newer version of the one which had been in there, an Adler Barbour/Dometic air cooled system. I had the same system on my previous N30U and it worked quite well. The removal of the old and installation of the new was a moderate job due mostly to the cramped working conditions but not technically challenging. A skilled and practiced installer should be able to do it all in less than 3 hours.
I purchased my components from West Marine which honored the best price I found on the Internet - less than $1250.
Ed Strazzini
N33 PELICAN
Deltaville, VA
Hi Eautha,
When we did the refit of Toyger N30U, we replaced the refrigeration system with a Sea Frost BD Air Cooled System with (1) 15" x 19" Evaporator Plate; Electronic Thermostat Thermometer with Speed Control, Fan Widget Kit, and Ice Tray Kit. That cost $1792 in March of 2016 (not including installation). Last year I loaded the box with 2 blocks of ice when I switched on the system at the start of the season and when the season was over I unloaded the same 2 blocks of ice (albeit much smaller) when I decommissioned the system for the winter. The ice trays really work and make nice big ice cubes. This year I just loaded the box with 1 block of ice when I turned the system on. We’re located in the Pacific NW but if we were in a hotter climate I would have probably gone with the water cooled system. I don’t know what difference there is between the ice box in an Ultra vs a Classic, if any, but that’s what’s worked for us. I worked with Cleave Horton of SeaFrost and his staff and they were extremely helpful. I followed Cleave’s suggestion for locating the compressor on the N30U which worked out great (he sent me a photo for one they had installed in a N30U on the east coast). If you have questions on the list prices of SeaFrost BD systems use this link to look up the latest pricing. http://www.seafrost.com/BD%20Pricing.html
Hope this was helpful.
Cheers!
Jim Krzyzewski
S/V Toyger N30U #422
Port Ludlow, WA
Hi Jim,
Where did you install it? Ours (installed by a prior owner) is under the galley sink which has advantages but makes getting to the sink seacock a challenge.
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville MD
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Hi, We replaced ours in our 26C but had a custom built by a local installer. He hung it from a plate under the storage bin behind the stove. There was lots of room and the stove still swings on the gimbals. It is located right beside the ice box so no long runs and away from the engine compartment where it was originally. Very little noise at night but I can hear it. Worth the trade off for efficiency. We did have it set up so it would run on AC direct when on shore power rather than through the charger and battery. Idea was that we can then get full benefit of the charger to top up batteries instead of running fridge.
Rob Powers
Respite 26C #50
Sidney BC
Hi Jim,
It sounds as if ours is installed just like Robs. We built a shelf in the wasted space behind the stove under the cabinet outboard of the stove. The stove can still swing to it’s hearts content without any interference and like Rob says it’s right next to the ice box eliminating long runs. I can tell when it cuts on and off when all’s quiet at night but for the most part it’s so quiet no one notices.
Jim Krzyzewski
S/V Toyger N30U #422
Port Ludlow, WA
Mine is located behind the cooktop. It will keep me awake at night when it cycles on. If my 35 year old Adler Barbour A/C is running, then it doesn’t bother me. BTW, my A/C is located in front of and below the reefer compressor, as I replaced my stove/oven with a cooktop.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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I did my fridge over a while ago when I changed the counter top to Corian. I moved the sink over next to the stove. That allowed me to move the fridge box forward into the place previously occupied by the sink. And then put a fridge door on the front on the counter front perpendicular to the bow to stern dimension.. In doing this I was able to insulate the fridge box on all surfaces with 3 inches of insulation. With the fridge door I now have shelves in the ice box which are all assessible through the fridge door. Much more convenient and functional and with more usable space. The compressor is still behind the stove. The one negative was that when I open door cool air does escape out of bottom. I have minimized this by putting a piece of plexiglass at bottom of opening which blocks release of air. A better idea would be to have a double door and only open top door for regular access.
Lloyd Robbins
I did my fridge over a while ago when I changed the counter top to Corian. I moved the sink over next to the stove. That allowed me to move the fridge box forward into the place previously occupied by the sink. And then put a fridge door on the front on the counter front perpendicular to the bow to stern dimension.. In doing this I was able to insulate the fridge box on all surfaces with 3 inches of insulation. With the fridge door I now have shelves in the ice box which are all assessible through the fridge door. Much more convenient and functional and with more usable space. The compressor is still behind the stove. The one negative was that when I open door cool air does escape out of bottom. I have minimized this by putting a piece of plexiglass at bottom of opening which blocks release of air. A better idea would be to have a double door and only open top door for regular access.
Lloyd Robbins
Just did this to my 1982 NS30C as the Adler Barbour unit finally gave up the ghost. It was a relief frankly as the standard air-cooled compressed was noisy enough to wake me at night so I used to switch it off when I went to bed.... additionally the unit killed my batteries.
I put in an isotherm Magnum water cooled holding plate and this unit is both extremely quiet and sips power by comparison to a traditional unit. It has a sensor that ramps up the compressor when then engine is running or you are on shore power - ‘storing’ the chill in the coldplate and then just maintaining it while on battery alone.
The kit dropped into the spot where the previous unit had been with any modifications but I did need to run hoses to a through-hull for the water cooling. If I had to do it over I would wait tilll she was on the hard and use the optional built-in exchanger/through-Hull on the kitchen sink drain.
I made the whole project a lot harder by removing all the old failing insulation and pouring a two-part foam into the resulting cavity but it was worth it in the end since the box holds ice for ages now. Again, if I had to do over, I would replace the counter at the same time and do that part from above.
Jim.
C.A.T. NS30C
No but I will take some
Another alternative is to do what I did when my engine driven compressor refrigeration system gave up. I bought an Engel refrigerator freezer. Runs off 12 volts or switches to 120 volts automatically when on generator or dock power.
WHAT WORKS! WHAT’S COOL!
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WHAT WORKS! WHAT’S COOL!Bianka had a Frigoboat 500 engine driven compressor refrigeration system when I bought her. It worked well for a… |
I actually have two. One I turn into a freezer when needed.
Advantages:
I did my fridge over a while ago when I changed the counter top to Corian. I moved the sink over next to the stove. That allowed me to move the fridge box forward into the place previously occupied by the sink. And then put a fridge door on the front on the counter front perpendicular to the bow to stern dimension.. In doing this I was able to insulate the fridge box on all surfaces with 3 inches of insulation. With the fridge door I now have shelves in the ice box which are all assessible through the fridge door. Much more convenient and functional and with more usable space. The compressor is still behind the stove. The one negative was that when I open door cool air does escape out of bottom. I have minimized this by putting a piece of plexiglass at bottom of opening which blocks release of air. A better idea would be to have a double door and only open top door for regular access.
Lloyd Robbins
