I've read the archives on different finishes for the cabin sole, but have any of you replaced the cabin sole with a synthetic such as NuTeak?
John Phillips
Whalewind NS30c #16
Ottawa
I've read the archives on different finishes for the cabin sole, but have any of you replaced the cabin sole with a synthetic such as NuTeak?
John Phillips
Whalewind NS30c #16
Ottawa
Hi John,
I thought about using a synthetic for outside but not inside. I replaced my cabin sole with teak and holly (actually maple as was told they don’ t use holly anymore) due to some delamination and found it was a fairly easy job. Since it doesn’t face the weather I expect it to be good for another 30 years. The biggest problem I had was matching the color and grains of the sheets of teak.
Greg Jeans
Cat Nap
NS 30c #135
Nova Scotia
Did you use teak/holly plywood or solid wood strips? If ply, what was the thickness? Thanks, I’m contemplating a similar project.
Gary
Catspaw
N30U #362
Blaine, WA
Gary, I used 9/16" - probably 14 mm. - plywood from a local specialty wood supplier. Be careful removing the old floor, because you want good edges as you will use the old floor as your template. Also spend the time to lay out the templates so the grain and features in the new floor match properly. Hinterholler set a very high standard in that regard.
I was fortunate to have access to a professional woodworking shop and a “.Norm Abram” quality craftsman for much needed assistance. You will need a table saw, band saw, router with a straight bit and a half round. The table saw cuts require a lot of precision, because you will cut alongside holly strips and any variance will be noticed, plus those edges will be your baseline for cutting out the new pieces. Using your old floor as templates, rough cut the remaining edges, using your baseline, for the new floor. Screw the old pieces (using 1/2" screws that will not go through the new top surface) into the bottom of the new pieces - make sure you match the straight cuts perfectly. Using the straight bit, router the new pieces using the old floor as templates. You should now have exact shapes for the new floor. Using the half round bit, router the edges to fit the rounded fiberglass perimeter of the cabin sole. You should now have an exact replica of your floor and are ready to finish the floor with the product of your choice.
Think this well through, measure and re-measure, take your time, test and re-test each step and you will have a high quality new floor.
Greg Jeans
Cat Nap
NS 30c #135
Nova Scotia
Wow, thanks Greg for the detailed answer. Excellent description and I do have access to the tools you mentioned. Sounds like a great project for over the winter. I’ll keep your email as a guide.
Gary
Catspaw
N30U #362
Blaine, WA
Good day all,
I am a new Nonsuch 30 owner and would like to resurrect this thread with a rookie question - The cabin sole in #16 is in pretty poor shape (the original post on this thread was from the PO). It looks like the aft flooring sheet runs under the engine access cover and supports on one end and under the post by the sink on the other. How does one remove and then install the new sole - bend the plywood and force it under?
Thanks
Jon Lewit
WhaleWind #16
In New Jersey, soon to be on the Hudson River
Hi Jon,
Congratulations on your new purchase, I hope you will have many happy years of sailing these wonderful boats.
The cabin sole sections (side ones) slide under the side pieces of the engine cover, and then are attached by screws going down through the small blocks attached to the aft side of the engine cover sides, below the electrical panels.
Just remove those screws (and all the screws holding each section down) then slide each section forward ( lifting the forward edge upward to give clearance) and they should be out.
One change I would make on reinstalling is to use flat head screws and countersunk washers instead of countersinking the screws and plugging them. This will make for easy removal any time you want to refinish the cabin sole.
Greg Jeans
Cat Nap
NS 30c #135
Jon,
One correction on my previous reply, as I think about it once all the screws are removed from the panels, you then remove the center panels first and then slide the port panel inward and forward. you then have room to slide the starboard panel inward and forward - no bending or forcing required.
Good luck,
Greg Jeans
Cat Nap
NS 30c #135
Thanks Greg. This coupled with the earlier postings should be a real help.
Jon