I thought there was a thread in the archives about the process of
replacing the propane lines, but if there is I haven't found it yet.
Several messages about having the lines replaced, but little
information about the process.
My 26C has the original lines with a tee (located in the locker under
the port quarter berth) for the line that leads to the hot water
heater in the head. The lines are not leaking. However, to play it
extra safe with propane I'm considering replacing the lines with
direct ones and eliminating the tee.
In concept, it would seem to be a fairly straight forward process:
Determine the length of the hoses, get them made up with the
appropriate connectors, and fish them through and reconnect. However,
I know it's not easy and the fishing could be a real challenge.
If you've replaced your propane lines, could you let me know how it
went? Or point me to the right messages in the archives?
Jim,
I have not replaced the lines on La Reina however when I had a recent
survey done on her a couple of points were made by the surveyor.
Anywhere the lines when through a bulk head they had to be protected
against chafe. He said most people use a split hose of heavy
construction such as sanitation hose. Where the line leaves the
propane locker it must have a gasket so that the propane can not spill
from the locker into the boat. I used inner tubes with undersized
holes that grabbed the lines tightly. I then glued the inner tube to
the side of the locker making an air tight seal.
The tee fitting outside of the propane locker does not sound as if it
meets current standards. Other than at the appliance the only joins or
breaks in the lines should be in locations that are sealed from the
rest of the boat (i.e. in the propane locker) were the propane can
drain overboard. Proper propane lines are not cheap, at least here in
Canada. While you are doing the work you should consider replacing the
drain line from the propane locker. You don't want that leaking. It
should be run so that there are no dips or sags where water can
collect and prevent the propane from draining.
Mark Powers and Nesta Davies
La Reina 26c
Burrard Civic Marina
Vancouver, B.C.
Mark,
Thanks for the tips, helps me a lot. My surveyor discussed chafe protection. But not the sealed opening through the bulkhead (maybe it's there, I'll have to look) and he missed the tee. I did have the propane drain hose, regulator, and solenoid replaced already. Currently, the hot water heater is disconnected and will eventually be replaced by the Excel unit.
Also want to add some type of propane sniffer.
I understand that codes change over time and that what once was permissible may now no longer be ok. I suspect that virtually all houses in the U.S. more than 10 years old are out of compliance with current electrical and plumbing codes. I like going fast on the water. But I do not want to have a propane problem and see how Morgan handles as a space rocket.
Jim
Back in 2008 I replaced the LP gas lines and remove the T fitting from the interior of the boat as required by my insurance surveyor. Attached is a drawing how I met their requirements. As Mark pointed out I also used chafe hoses around the LP gas lines running through the ribs and bulkhead. As noted on the drawing I used vapor tight fittings around the hoses as they enter the propane locker. Yes check the vent line and through hull fitting. Ed Cook of Chat-Eau took on water as he motored from a broken vent through hull fitting that was caused by UV damage.
I went crazy trying to find the LP gas lines at the time. I learned that the lines and fittings can be purchased at most propane companyies and since they had the tools, I had them install the pressure fittings to the hose ends. I also took all my fittings off the stove and water heater and had the new hoses fittings changed out to fit the new ones. The new hoses are smaller in diameter than the old hoses.
On my 26U the hardest part of the job was matching the stain to the cabinet that I had to take out just to get at the T fitting and hoses. Good luck,