Nonsuch arrived in Sea Brook TX … Finally …working on the steering system - tight, no restrictions on the cable or pullies that I can see…located the grease cup on the rudder post… Question ?.. Before I start tampering with it…Does the grease cup just unscrew so a zurk fitting can be installed … Proper removal of the grease cap.??? Once out do I need to tap the hole for a zurk. Any advice appreciated on installing a zurk fitting…
I believe there are several members who have replaced the cup with a Zerk fitting and will discuss it. You can use the cup as it will work fine. Just unscrew it, fill it full of waterproof grease and replace it. Screw it down until you can’t easily turn it anymore. I started out as a grease monkey working in my father’s garage greasing trucks which had many, many Zerk fittings.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
No reason to change from grease cup to Zerk - follow Joe’s advice for use
Using a grease gun on a zerk or other fitting can lead to overpressuring what you are trying to grease with possible serious results
Cedric - Single Malt
26 C #207
Chester Nova Scotia
Thank you both for the advice ! Another question, As I am going through this boat with a fine tooth comb, In the forward bildge there is what looks like a grounding cable that runs forward and is attached to the mast step casting. The other end is attached to a connector that is bolted down in the bilgel. Looks like there is some kind of solenoid attached to this fitting. #1, If this unit is removed will it leak ? or is it just screwed into a the hull with no thru hull. ?
I may be mistaken , there was so much trash, leaves …junk etc in the bilge area…. may be a keel bolt LOL… I need to remove all of the floor boards clean degrease and make all new floor…easy… when back on the boat Ill take a pic and send
Ron: I suspect you’re right about it going to a keel bolt. That’s how the boats were built. I’m going to redo my cabin sole also, and use a PlasTeak product.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
I changed the grease cup to a Zerk fitting on my 30 Ultra. The grease cup had very old, dried (as in hard as a rock) grease in it, that I couldn’t chisel out or melt with a torch (no I didn’t try to do this while it was still on the boat attached to the rudder post!).
The grease cup was very easy to remove - it unscrewed with no problem.
Napa auto-parts zerks fit perfectly. I’ve attached photos of the zerk packaging so you have the part# (I fairly certain the post threads should be the same on a 26 as the 30’s).
It was mentioned that over-pressuring the rudder post could be a problem, but I am not sure how… I know to stop pumping grease in when it comes out the top of the post tube - I’ve attached some photos of the zerk in the post housing as well as the grease coming out of the top (I don’t usually leave it this messy, but this was for winter in-water storage so I left the excess grease, just because).
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKE WALK III
1987 30 Ultra 430
Jersey City, NJ
Hi Joe;
FLOORING…
One thought I had was to get 2 4x8 sheet of 3/8" marine plywood, Home depot and Lowes have laminated wood that looks very similar to my existing teak wood floor, NOTE: Before cutting the sheets, I would paint the back side of the plywood, and use a marine grade waterproof glue on the non painted side where I would graciously apply the glue then lay down the laminated wood and weight it down till its dry, Then place the old flooring on top and use as a templet. On the NS26 two 4x8 sheets will be more than enough to complete the job. The 3/8 " plywood with the laminated wood will equal 1/2 " which is what the floor thickness is now. Est cost will be between $150 to $200. Simulare type wood flooring is also available and waterproof..
If you have a full spare day, with little going on, THAT is the amount of time it may take you to digest everything that has been written on this board already about replacing/repairing the floors in our boats. There is a treasure trove of stuff there, with loads of contributed photos. Try typing in " floor" or “Plasteak” or “cabin sole”.
Honestly, you’ll be amazed !!
Even if you paid a song for your boat, you got a good boat (that, sorry, doesn not look half bad at all - I’ve seen far worse and grungy looking, out on the lake, sailing along. Heck, even my boat looks that once in a while.).
Not the same as PlasTeak or other imitation PVC teak wood flooring …the flooring they have can come close to color and grain matching but not the same, there are several samples they offer and are waterproof as well… . They interlock - snap together when assembled. From what I seen PlasTeak is very expensive…, Due to a water leak and the leak not being dealt with…my floor is totally shot … delam everywhere.. My suggestion..take a trip to the stores and check their samples out. Id value your opinion in this endeavor…
Ron
The boat looks great. I would have acquired a 26 if my community didn’t have a size limit and 4.5 feet draft is a little problematic in my sailing area. My 22 was in my opinion, in reasonable condition when I acquired her, but I did have my work cut out for me. Don’t be afraid of the projects you may need to do to bring her up to your acceptable condition. There are plenty of knowledgeable owners here willing to offer valid guidance. I found the boat is a really solid vessel and the projects are all pretty straight forward. I did have a time of it re-connecting the wiring on my new alternator. It was because I failed to perform the basic task of recording the connections before pulling out the old one, and it was a few months before I re-installed the motor and alternator. With a deep web dive and plenty of help from this forum, and very detailed wiring schematics provided in the owner’s documentation I achieved a successful result and thank my alternator every time I start the engine.
Good luck and enjoy her.
Thanks for the encouraging words… She needs a lot of deep cleaning ..LOL even in the bilge.( u wouldn’t believe what I found in there ) and minor repair …but overall she is a solid boat.. Eng only has 871 hrs on it, I plan on servicing it, oil change new filters ,fuel and oil, replace water impeller, boil the heat exchangers in barnacle Buster, change water/fuel separator …etc. Sail is in good shape, in sail shop now getting a good cleaning and minor sewing repair…New track being installed on the mast b4 having it installed in the boat, My biggest concern as I had mentioned in other messages is the steering system, Haven’t had a chance to crawl down into the bilge to look closely at it and is kinda of a 2 man job, One Turing the helm while the other oils the chain and grease fittings LOL looks kinda spooky down there too… Retiring in May ..looking forward to relaxing and working on the boat, I am grateful for all of the support from the Nonsuch members.
Congratulations on acquiring a Nonsuch for a song Ron. I hope you get as much enjoyment from this boat and life-project as I have over the past 20 years from my 26C. There is almost nothing that can’t be fixed, (and by yourself with some advice on this page and your own elbow grease) on these well designed and well built boats. And if the rig, which is the most expensive system - were to somehow become not useable, she will make an incredible Great Loop trawler. (just cut a bit off the keel). I would like to hear you sing sometime.
LOL Even tho I’m Italian descent…LOL u wouldn’t want to hear me sing , I saw a creative change of another NS 26 to the forward settee’s . I believe the owner took the sliding plywood piece off of the port side seat and made two new pieces to install between the two bunks creating one Huge Sleeping area. Has anyone done this.?? If so…Like to see how you have mounted the center piece between the two seats, I thought of having the two pieces meet in the center, both pieces would be hinged to each bunk side ( using large hinges / bolts and nuts ). To support the downward weight, 2 support legs one each side of each plywood piece, the legs would be removable to store in the storage area . The two plywood pieces being hinged, would swing up and back and rest on the main seating area where the cushion would go on top. The table of course would have been removed, and two new cushions to be made. Any info is welcome,