When I rebuilt my steering system last season I failed to replace the grease cup in the rudder tube. I reused the same tube, but missed that step. Can someone tell me how far down the rudder tube their grease cup is located?
As an alternative could I just use a thin oil dribbled in on the top of the tube? I doubt it, but I need to ask.
Randy Gadikian
Paisley Moon
1982 NS 26 C
Buffalo, NY
In theory, Randy, the cup should be within easy access from either cockpit locker and about a foot up. You don’t have to replace it, just unscrew, fill with waterproof grease and screw it back on.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Hi Joe,
I was not clear in my message. I fiberglassed over the grease cup opening in the rudder tube. Of course I carefully covered it with blue tape first. But the tape is now under 4 layers of glass and epoxy so it is not visible.
Randy
Randy
My suggestion would be to measure someone else’s boat near your serial number and cut the glass for access.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Hi Joe,
That’s the plan. There is a 30 at my marina. I will measure and guess. How far off can I be?
Thanks
Randy -
If the boat is on the hard (likely) and IF the rudder tube is empty (rudder not installed), get a buddy to shine a flashlight down or up the the tube. Crawl underneath and see if you can see a lit-up dot (the light visible through the hole and through the masking tape).
Or … (providing the tube is empty), from outside, take a straight length of coat hanger wire and bend the end of it 90 degrees so the bent part is only around 1/2" long. Slowly, insert the tube, fishing around, until, maybe, you locate the hole. Mark the wire and measure it.
Maybe these “interesting” ideas will work ??!!
Good luck.
Ernie A. in Toronto
I am probably very late on this subject but just in case this is helpful I think you could get a pretty good idea of the location. Possibly just removing a chunk of Fibergas out where the hole most likely is and re-Fiberlas that area when you do what you’ve got to do.
Cheers,
Butch
Butch Garren
Nonsuch 30, #196
Whiskers II,
Solomons, MD
Having replaced all three rudder gussets last year I am intimately familiar with this diagram 
as well as the confines of the Nonsuch 26 bilge. I was hoping that another 26 owner knew the location of the hole in the rudder tube out of hand, or would perhaps take pity on me and measure.
Randy
Many thanks to new member Val Bourdeau who stopped at his 82 Nonsuch 26C to take a measurement for me. He also gave me a quick tour of some of the work he has been doing, I am impressed, he will have a very nice Nonsuch 26C when he is done.
Randy Gadikian
Paisley Moon
Nonsuch 26C #37
Buffalo, NY
Randy,
I will try to remember to measure next time I am at La Reina. Where do you want the measurements taken from? I have tried to attach a photo but I get a message saying the post is too long. Trying it with less resolution.
Mark
Hi Randy,
I measured the height of the grease fitting today. It looks like the one on La Reina.
It is 3 1/2 " down from the top of the tube. The zero fitting on Respite is mounted on a metal tube that projects about 1" from the fiberglass and is set at 45 degrees facing to port. I guess it is supposed to make it easier to attach the grease gun but I don’t think the extra complexity adds much unless it is easier to fibreglass the metal tube in than a zero fitting>
Rob Powers
Respite 26C #50
Sidney BC
Hi Randy\Sorry no measurement on this item. Also I don’t know when I’ll get to the boat this spring. I suspect these holes are all in a slightly different place.
However here is a photo of Andrew B’s rudder tube. I believe mine is also up nearer the top of the tube like this one. I guess the idea was to keep it above the waterline.
Tom
26C # 28
Penetang
Hi Tom,
Your attached pictures perfect. Not only does it show the positioning of the hole in the rudder tube it also shows that another poor sole needed to replace his rudder gussets!
Randy
Thanks for the picture Mark,
I already have the measurement I need from Val. Judging from your picture it looks like you could be a candidate for gusset replacement soon.
I was hoping no one would notice. Inspection suggests the starboard side is only a crack in the paint. The Port side has been re-enforced with new glass.
Mark Powers
Hi Mark,
Replacing the gussets is a time consuming repair but it is not overly difficult. My gussets were split from absorbing so much water. Leaks developed around the base of the gussets. Once I cut away the glass holding them to the hull they were relatively easy to take out. Use the old gusset to pattern a new one. There is more to it than that, but I did the project over a period of a few weeks. If I had to do it again I think I could do it in a week of 4 hour days.
Randy
Mark -
When it’s safe to travel, fly Randy out there and in 24 hours straight, non-stop, you’ll have new gussets.
Ernie A. in Toronto
The problem with meranti plywood (which is what is available nowadays) is that it’s not as hard a wood as the marine plywood that they used back in the 80’s. I have a newly crafted two panel hatch for my companion way that is made from the higher grade meranti and it dings very easily. I’m not convinced it would perform well as gusset replacement material.
Does anyone have experience with Coosa board (http://coosacomposites.com/ , https://www.fisheriessupply.com/coosa-board-bluewater-26-marine-composite-cut-pieces)?
I’ve been toying with using it for some other work, and it sounds like it might be good for replacement gussets, but I don’t have any experience with it myself yet.
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C #143
On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 7:25:14 PM UTC-7 Val NS26C #75, Ottawa, ON wrote:
When I had to have the foredeck redone on MOUSTACHES, I was told by one of my fellow boat club members that, in addition to fibreglass and balsa core, the area had a thickness of 3/4" ply in it. This gent had actually worked at Hinterhoeller for a short while, building Nonsuches and Niagaras. (We are lucky in this area - a few of the factory types are still around.)
The upshot - the plywood was FIR ply. Probably not marine grade, just good old cheap fir ply. This plywood is among the strongest that can be found AND, while not waterproof, can survive, for decades, apparently, saturated with water, like a sponge. It won’t weaken or disintegrate. He, then, stated “Ya got moisture or water in the foredeck on your Nonsuch ?? Leave it alone … it’ll never weaken”.
How about THEM apples ?? Of course, as I couldn’t bear the thought of a saturated foredeck (right where the mast is and all of those forces act on the deck), I had the job done. It only took 10 months (done outdoors, during COVID, etc.). It is my understanding (tho I may be wrong) that marine ply is made with waterproof glue. The actual wood (not certain what wood it is, actually) probably gets soaked and may stay wet.
New fir ply - strong as bull - slathered in layers of fibreglass - rock solid. Food for thought, no ??
Ernie A. in Toronto
